THE THRUHIKE JOURNAL: Day 21 (Bongdo to Labangon)

I TOOK ANOTHER BATH this morning. It was not that cold last night. Maybe we were not that high in elevation anymore. I do not have an altimeter and I could not determine how high was our location here in Bongdo, Borbon. But it was sunny for the last two days and, despite that, the breeze was cold. The amihan, the northeast monsoon winds, carried the winter cold of Siberia, Japan and China to the tropics, where we are 10 degrees above the equator. We also had the sun slightly at our back even at noontime.

This would be the last day of my Hi-Tec Lima hiking shoes for the Thruhike. When we reach Labangon, Tabogon, it would be sent home. It would be replaced by another pair of Jack Wolfskin shoes, which I used brand new during the southern leg, and have caused me blisters for there was no time to break it in. I believed the 11 days I spent walking the Cebu Highlands Trail before it was replaced by the former is good enough to try it once more. Tomorrow hosts the final and most terrible obstacle of the Thruhike.

The bath last night and today, February 8, 2017, have freshened me and have washed away dust, grime and that manly odor. It also gave me a clear mind. That helped when I had another breakfast of instant Knorr soup and rice, which I find so monotonous and devoid anymore of appeal. But there is coffee to keep me alive. As always, the capsules of Enervon multivitamins and Herbalife natural raw Guarana and, of course, Yakult cultured milk are consumed before we step out into the great outdoors and Day Twenty-one.

 

I have washed last night my Silangan hiking pants and the official CHT jersey made by Silangan Outdoor Equipment, my outfitter. It stayed odorless just the same as if it were not laundered. What it removed were tiny salt crystals, dust, debris and pollen. Nevertheless, the notion of having clean apparels gave you a peace of mind. I will still wear my Fila socks and SNS elastic undershorts for the last time today. Tomorrow will be a hard day and I hope the supply team arrive later this afternoon along with Jack Wolfskin.

We left the village of Bongdo at 07:30, after thanking the Hon. Abdias Retuerto and the village secretary. I know the route to the next village where we will cross another municipality. We follow an unpaved road, stopping for a while to talk to a good furniture maker who specialized in bamboo material. We walk on and stop by a small stream where there is a small bridge. We are now between the boundary of Borbon and Tabuelan.

It is a very lonely place. By the time we left the last house thirty minutes ago, we did not encounter people. We continue on and follow our route but someone whistling was coming towards us. He got startled when he saw us. We gave greetings but the guy acted queerly. I gestured to Jonathaniel Apurado and he understood. This early morning, the green things were greener, the air clearer and the birds sang to their joyous abandonment. The weather is mild with breeze blowing cool. It would have been perfect for the local guy except for our unsought presence.

As I reach a landmark, I scan the landscape and found what I was looking for. It is a trail. How did I know there was a trail? Been here done that, but how did I found that out before? Simple. Terrain analysis. When I explored this place a year ago, I found the rough road was going west but my direction was to the north, so it was not difficult. Just scan your right side if you happen to walk west and it would reveal itself. Of course, you need to have good observation skills. Common sense will teach you that.

 

The trail followed the hills gently up and worked its way along contours, crossing a wide cleft and then up another gentle slope until I saw a roof of a hut. Familiarity breeds happiness. We are now approaching the village of Kanluhangon, Tabuelan. I have also nurtured friendship with their village chair, Hon. Felix Rondina, so I sent a text message to the Tabuelan Police Station to inform them of our presence in their area and our Thruhike.

We arrived at the village at 09:00 and began the routine of paying courtesy call to an official. There was a group of residents sitting under a waiting shed and they were waiting for someone. They spotted me but their body language told me a reaction that could only be borne by either excitement or by confusion. There was something in the air. Was it my appearance? I am now bearded and tanned with white tousles of hair. My clothes are partly wet with sweat and one of my shoes was smiling. I looked like a hobo.

One of them approached me suspiciously and asked if we were the ones they were expecting. No, I says. We are just passing through. Are we hikers? Yes, we were hiking since January 17 from Santander and going to Daanbantayan. Then there was joy and laughter in everyone as they poured out of the waiting shed. They did not expect us so soon. We were supposed to be expected for lunch and they were having a meeting on what food to offer us.

My happiness got replaced with sadness as I learned that Felix had passed recently from a motorcycle accident at Liloan. He was another able public servant and was also the head of the Tabuelan Disaster Risk Reduction Management Office, just like the late Dante Limana of the village of Tabili, for Catmon. I met both at a search and rescue conference in Cebu City last July 2016. Their presence would have ensured safe passage for hikers after this Thruhike is over.

We stayed and talked with the residents. Three live fowls arrive with their owners while a fire is started at the back of the health center. I get to know Felix’s widow, Lendy, herself a village councilor. We were warmly entertained and offered native delicacies. During a lull, I tried the weighing scale. I could not believe I weigh close to 86 kilos. Was the scale defective? It had been a long time I weighed like this. I stopped standing on one when I failed to bring my weight below 98 kilos.

 

We eat lunch together with the residents of Kanluhangon. I took several servings even though that, in less than thirty minutes, we would be hitting the trail again, this time, with bloated stomachs. I eat to my hearts content. The food was heartily offered and there was sincerity in their voices. I wished policemen from Tabuelan would join us in this feast. They were also expected. I explained to the residents that we have a schedule to pursue and people to meet at 16:00. It is very important that I arrive there first.

At 11:45, we left Kanluhangon after giving our sincerest thanks and our appreciation. We walked on a paved road that became unpaved when it joined another one. Under the heat of the noontime sun, we persevered and reach a paved road. This road goes to coastline Tabuelan and the other end to Tabogon. We followed the one going east but made a left turn at a corner, entering the village of Calambua, San Remigio. It was breezy yet, despite it, the sun burned above and the pavement bounced off glare. Sent a text message to the San Remigio Police Station informing them of our passage.

The road offered few shades except by coconuts. To the right of me is a rolling valley of grassland and sugar canes. I looked for the trail, found it, and began crossing this wide valley. It is better hiking here and the trails are much kind to the feet soles. We cross a small bridge and, guided by the sight of the national highway far away, we choose our route. We did not follow the path taken during the Segment VI Exploration Hike last year. Instead we took a northeasterly direction.

We crossed a stream and climbed up a dirt road, crossed another bridge, go back to the same road. We passed by a private cemetery and continue on until we reach the St. Martin de Porres Parish. We are now in Ilihan, Tabogon and a few meters from us is the national highway. It is 13:55 and we have so much time. We can take a half hour of rest and still be at Labangon, Tabogon before 16:00. Our supply team would be expected on that hour and I am competing with a Swiss guy, who are known to observe prompt time. After all, they made famous the Swiss watch.

Markus Immer would be driving the supply team in his Toyota Hi-Lux pickup. On the last three rendezvous, I arrived early before him and on this fourth supply run, I would keep that record intact. He would always arrive before time but I beat him all the time. We start for Labangon at 14:20, after crossing the highway. I sent another text message for the Tabogon Police Station so they would expect also of our presence. The asphalted road wove among sugar cane fields and then I saw this ragged monolith from afar. The Doce Cuartos Mountain Range is the last and the most difficult obstacle of the Thruhike.

 

I shivered at its sight because I could not shake off the trauma of my two failures there in April and August last year. This small mountain range is my Moby Dick and I am Captain Ahab trying to tame her. I would try her again tomorrow. Most of it are unexplored. It has only a very few trails and there is no known water source. Forest cover are stunted, exposing your head to heat exposure. It is made of limestone and the surface are made of loose rocks. One mistake and you are done. 

A sign says we are now in Labangon. We crossed a bridge and found the village head at his home at 15:30. I made a courtesy call on the Hon. Leonilo Peligrin and asked permission to stay and sleep for the night. He welcomed our presence. At 15:45, Markus and company arrived. With him were Justin Abella, Leomil Pino and Jenmar de Leon and our fresh supply of food and fuel. Part of that are bread from our valued sponsor Park N Go Bakeshop, courtesy of Randy Salazar.

A police patrol from the Tabogon Police Station arrived at 17:30 to check on us. They informed us that they were sent to secure our presence and that they would also stay overnight. Very much appreciate that. After supper, Markus, Jenmar and Justin left. Leomil would stay with us and would hike with us tomorrow and try to experience this terribly dour mountain range. We three tried to fit in the limited space of the hut. The night is silently eerie but we have guardian angels tonight. 

Distance Walked: 14.97 kilometers

Elevation Gained: 212 meters and a low of 89 meters

Document done in LibreOffice 5.2 Writer