2021-030 | ESKAPO VERDE RESORT

TWO YEARS AGO, I WAS part of a mixed team of tourism-service specialists and outdoor educators contracted by the Department of Tourism-Central Visayas Region for their Tourism Industry Skills Program. The TISP was designed for local government units to equip their respective local tourism programs with the proper guidance and training. 

The first municipality that availed of the TISP was Badian. The training was held at ESKAPO VERDE RESORT, located on a rocky islet off the mainland, still a part of Bugas, a fishing village of Badian. That evening of August 17, 2019 when I first arrived at Eskapo Verde, the first thing I noticed was the long bamboo bridge that was built over an estuary filled with mangroves before I arrived at their reception area.

In daylight, I was totally impressed at what beheld me. Eskapo Verde is the only resort that I have seen yet which has not created an artificial landscape like most do. In fact, the management encouraged the unabated growth of native trees, shrubs, mangroves and low-growing vegetation. Even the structures blended well with the natural landscape. It has no fences. The sea is its own barrier. 

It is built on a protected area at over two hectares of land coverage with blessings from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources. The only structure that used steel and synthetic plastic material is their pier located on their water-sports area that serviced their kayaks and SUP boards. A bouncy path paved with sawdust and mulch lead you to the different areas of the resort.

The living quarters are generally made of mixed coconut lumber, hardwood, imported lumber and bamboo with GI sheets as roofing. It used concrete, nails and steel bars minimally. While its exterior design is generally conventional but, once you go closer, especially the interiors, you would be amazed at the very neat workmanship. It fused our local material and design with Western carpentry and technology. 

There are four cottages which could accommodate two persons each. Each has a mezzanine that has enough space for two children up to 15 years of age; a private bathroom and a balcony. There are two dormitories with two rooms each. Each room has ten bunk beds. A separate dormitory-type bathroom complement each dormitory. It could host 48 people, at any one time, for overnight or multi-day conventions and seminars.  

Underneath the bathrooms are intricate septic-tank systems, designed for European standards that harnessed wasted “gray water” from the bathrooms for toilet use, after undergoing treatment. “Black water” or dirty water are sucked up by solar-powered pumps to mobile tanks which are then disposed by a collection service company. All bathrooms use environment-friendly liquid soaps and shampoos.

I slept that night – and five nights more – in one of the dormitory rooms. On my bunk is an overhead switch that turns on a reading light. Impressive! I travel with a book. Instead of a bare wall, are two small jalousie windows, with screens, and below it are screened slit holes that allow outside breeze to pass underneath my bunk or swept out by two electric fans hung from a very high ceiling.

Each set of bed bunks has a furniture to place things, clothe hangers and electrical outlets to charge those mobile phones, tablets and other gadgets. The floor is made of coconut lumber, fine-sanded and lavishly coated with varnish. Each slat is a centimeter apart from the other which helps to ventilate and cool the insides of the large room. The room is accessible by a stair, then through a shared balcony, but you have to leave footwear below. 

Now, let me tell you about my first breakfast there which left an impression on me. It is their Eskapo Burger! It is something so different from your usual burger. The putty is a combination of ground pork and veggies with a generous slice of tomato and cucumber. Now eat it al fresco, paired with brewed coffee, on a rocky promontory overlooking the width of Tañon Strait and distant Negros Island. Heavenly!

Eskapo Verde has a restaurant called The Boardwalk. It serves its guests and diners with varied choice of menus from Filipino to Western to vegetarian and vegan dishes, whatever time of the day, be it breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks. Ingredients are fresh and sourced locally from farmers and fishermen. Like everywhere else in their resort, you have to leave your footwear outside before entering. 

Food is one of the secrets of Eskapo Verde, why guests keep coming back aside from a green peaceful environment and superb amenities. The first thing you would hear upon waking up are the cacophonies of different birds. A tour around Eskapo Verde would show you the different native trees, each labeled with their common and scientific names and, of course, you might espy one of their resident monitor lizards or spot an Eastern glossy starling overhead.

Kayaking or paddling a SUP board are the two main water activities they are offering, each with a guide. When the tide is right, you could glide through the mangrove forest and underneath their bamboo boardwalk, going through open sea towards a half-sunken boat wreck then going full circle to their water-sports area. During sunsets, Tañon Strait explodes into fiery colors from burnt orange to crimson red. 

A function house sits in the middle of the residential quarters where it could host seminars, wedding receptions, small conventions or off-the-boardroom corporate meetings of up to 40 people. The use of projector, laptop and screen is a separate package though. Food could be arranged to suit your appetite or the theme of the event. Of course, an assigned washroom shall be opened to accommodate people.

When I went back there the third time last October 26, 2020, I was invited by the management. Of course, I brought the same team that had been guests here two years ago. The pandemic had greatly affected their business but, once the lockdowns have been relaxed, they opened their doors, limiting only to their restaurant operation at limited hours and selected days of the week.

We stayed there for four days and three nights and sat with management to help them create another strategy to adopt with the new normal and focus more on local tourism. Eskapo Verde Resort will have to re-boot itself to claim back their market. Their image as a clean resort should be optimized by placing signage at the right places, placing emphasis this time on their food, which is really very good and affordable.

I can generally recommend Eskapo Verde Resort as the one resort that you would really love to stay and, at the same time, enjoy being close to nature. In fact, it has the best deck to view a sunset, especially on a low tide, where you could see locals combing the tidal flats at waist level, with the fiery red sky reflecting light on placid water. 

Eskapo Verde Resort is not your conventional resort that offers a beach and a bath. What it has are abundant sunshine and wind and sea spray as you paddle a kayak or a SUP board to a shipwreck or skim among mangroves along the coasts of Badian Bay. After a long day, the food would totally win you over to come back again and pick a familiar note from your favorite bird. 

For more inquiries, Eskapo Verde Resort has its own website and Facebook page. Or you could email at info@eskapoverde.com or call and send an SMS to these numbers: +63928 7404182 (Smart) and +63915 4658085 (Globe). By the way, Booking.com rated Eskapo Verde a 9.6 for last year, despite a terrible business climate caused by the pandemic. Likewise, Agoda rated them a 9.8 out of a 10.

2021-009 | PINOYAPACHE IN A TOURISM PROGRAM

IN 2019, THIS BLOGGER was part of a team of resource persons contracted by the Department of Tourism, Central Visayas Region, to train, educate and enhance community guides of the different local government units (LGU), whose tourism programs are focused on adventure or cultural or both. This national project is called the Tourism Industry Skills Program (TISP) and was implemented by every region since 2017.

DOT-Central Visayas did not fall behind and, in fact, it was running in full steam. Credit that to its Regional Director, Mr. Shahlimar H. Tamano, and the equally hard-working duo of Senior Tourism Operations Officer, Ms. Cynthia O. Monzon, and Tourism Operations Officer, Mr. Eli John Eduave. They were able to assemble a veteran team composed of tourism service specialists and outdoor educators and they were Ms. Agnes Tuling, Mr. Ruel Rigor, Ms. Rosebelle Daculan, Mr. Ramon Vidal, Mr. Randy Salazar and mister yours truly. 

Many aspiring community guides participated in the TISP. Those who passed the series of tests and evaluation given by DOT-Central Visayas are issued special tourism guide license, which scope are confined to the LGU where they belonged or recognized thereat as a community guide. The license gives the holder legitimacy to undertake work of a community guide and, therefore, protects the tourists and their LGU from fly-by-night opportunists. 

The following are the LGUs that have benefited from the TISP offered by DOT-Central Visayas. Each has its own existing tourism programs based on its identity which had already been carved from or associated with the landscape and the landmarks and these had made each LGU unique and worth a visit. This writer would add his personal observations, in italics, as you sift through each LGU on the visit of Team TISP. 

MUNICIPALITY OF BADIAN

Province of Cebu

August 17-24, 2019 

ATTRACTIONS: Kawasan Waterfalls; Matutinao River; Lambug Beach; Badian Island; Osmeña Peak; Candung-aw Peak and Tañon Strait. 

ACTIVITIES: Canyoneering/River Trekking; Swimming/Bathing; Picnic; Snorkeling; Hiking/Camping; Zipline Gliding.

TISP was held at Eskapo Verde, an eco-tourism resort located on an islet off Bugas, Badian. The area is conducive for learning since it is accessible through a 250-meter long bamboo walkway over an estuary where mangroves grow, far away from the Cebu Southwest Road. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was also in Eskapo Verde. 5 stars out of 5.  

Eskapo Verde is a perfect magnet to develop and to include water sports, like kayaking and stand-up paddling (SUP), into the tourism map of Badian LGU. Besides, the five small islets and a half-buried shipwreck all in close proximity to Eskapo Verde is also another venue to develop a new tourism activity of mangrove kayaking. 

What a lot of people in Badian do not know is that the longest Camino de Santiago in the Philippines starts from their own St. James the Apostle Parish, located in Poblacion. This is a pilgrimage route that climb over the mountains to Dalaguete and goes north to Compostela, 175 kilometers away. This is patterned after the one in Spain and have been established here in Cebu since July 2017. It passes by the barangays of Dagatan, Malhiao, Sohoton, Tigbao and Santicon.   

CITY OF CARCAR

Province of Cebu

August 27-September 1, 2019 

ATTRACTIONS: Preserved Spanish Colonial Infrastructures; Carcar City Museum; Indigenous Food/Delicacies; Guadalupe Mainit-Mabugnaw National Park; and Theotokos Shrine. 

ACTIVITIES: Cultural/Historical Tour; Gastronomic Tour; Spelunking/Cave Tour; Hiking/Camping; Sightseeing/Birdwatching; Warm Water Bathing.

TISP was held in a vacant room of the new Carcar City Hall. The seminar is partly shouldered by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources, Region VII, because of the inclusion of the GMMNP in the city’s tourist mapping. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was at Tatope Travel Lodge, located along the Cebu South Road, Carcar City. 1 star out of 5. 

Most people in Carcar City do not know yet that both the 400-kilometer Cebu Highlands Trail and the 175-kilometer Camino de Santiago pass by their city. The two long trails both enter Barangay Napo on the same way and exits from Barangay Calidngan at two different paths. 

On the other hand, Carcar City still has remnants of the industries that it had once depended on in the past. Instead of placing them in the dustbin of existence, why not include these into their tourist map. I am talking about leathercraft and bladesmithing. Why not fuse these two and develop a new tourism destination under “blade tourism”? 

MUNICIPALITY OF SAMBOAN

Province of Cebu

September 8-15, 2019

ATTRACTIONS: Aguinid Waterfalls; Binalayan Waterfall; Dao Waterfall; Preserved Spanish Colonial Infrastructures and Tañon Strait. 

ACTIVITIES: River Trekking; Swimming/Bathing; Snorkeling. Picnic; Cultural/Historical Tour; Sightseeing/Birdwatching.

TISP was held inside the session room of the Samboan Municipal Hall. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was at Chelan Resort House, located along the Cebu Southwest Road, Poblacion, Samboan. 3 stars out of 5. 

The Cebu Highlands Trail established a campsite on a ridge of Barangay Monteverde. It would be best if the Samboan LGU would develop it into a camping area because of its proximity to a water tank. 

MUNICIPALITY OF SAN FRANCISCO

Province of Cebu

September 22-29, 2019 

ATTRACTIONS: Lake Danao; Paraiso Cave; Amazing Island Cave and Beach Resort; Timubo Cave; Santiago Bay; San Francisco Baywalk and Causeway; Indigenous Handicrafts. 

ACTIVITIES: Hiking/Camping; Zipline Gliding; Kayaking/Paddling; Picnic; Spelunking/Cave Tour; Swimming/Bathing; Sightseeing/Birdwatching.

 

TISP was held inside the function room of the San Francisco Multi-Purpose Cooperative, Poblacion, San Francisco. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was at Dayon Lodge, also in Poblacion. 1 star out of 5.

MUNICIPALITY OF TUDELA

Province of Cebu

September 30-October 6, 2019 

ATTRACTIONS: Bukilat Cave; Buenavista Heritage Tree; Villahermosa Giant Clam Sanctuary; Tudela Mangrove Forest; Busay Waterfall; Makalabad Peak. 

ACTIVITIES: Spelunking/Cave Tour; Cultural/Historical Tour; Sightseeing/Birdwatching; Swimming/Bathing; Snorkeling; River Trekking; Hiking/Camping; Kayaking/Paddling.

 

TISP was held in the function hall of Villa Alicia Resort, Poblacion, Tudela. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was also at Villa Alicia Resort. 3 stars out of 5. 

All blacksmiths in Tudela LGU still used improvised oven and blower and still produce the best blade tools that are used by farmers and homesteads on the islands of Poro, Pacijan and Ponson. It may be worth the effort to include these blacksmith shops into the tourist map of the LGU under the new destination of “blade tour”. It may be even viable if the three other LGU of the Camotes Group of Islands decides to join hands and save this dying industry. 

MUNICIPALITY OF ALICIA

Province of Bohol

October 9-16, 2019 

ATTRACTIONS: Alicia Panoramic View; Birhen Nature Resort; Cagong-cagong Cave; Princess Manan-aw Cave; Chocolate Cave; Alicia Schist Rock. 

ACTIVITIES: Hiking/Camping; Trail Running; Bathing; Sightseeing/Birdwatching; Spelunking/Cave Tour; Cultural/Historical Tour.

TISP was held, respectively; for the first three days, at The Farm in Alicia, Cambaol, Alicia; and for the rest of the week, in the function room of the Alicia Municipal Hall Annex. Accommodation for the DOT-Central Visayas TISP Team was also at the Alicia Municipal Hall Annex. 1 out of 5. 

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WHILE TOURISM MAY BRING in revenues needed by the LGUs, it has its downside as well. We have seen the decay that over-commercialization and over-development have done on so many places and are now shunned by most tour operators due to lesser tourists. The TISP is just not improving skills on the tourism operators but also considers the health of the environment of a destination as an integral part of development and the team emphasized that in our 2019 LGU tour.

AN IRISH COUPLE IN OPEAK

EVEN THOUGH I HAD A two-week inactivity, I still consider myself physically fit and I could outwalk, outpace and outlast any wannabe twenty-five years my junior. I have completely regained my stamina walking the same trails on the Babag Mountain Range in Cebu City almost every weekend for eight straight years after I made a comeback in 2008. I believed  I am even now better than when I was 25.

My Thruhike of the Cebu Highlands Trail for 27 days in 2017 was life-changing or, should I say, a paradigm shifter. That walk was made for me. My destiny. I can count of only a few fingers on my right hand of contemporary Filipinos who tried and hiked a long trail in their own country in one straight journey. My stamina and my fortitude gave me success and my bragging right. Deny me not.

Cebu do not host many mountains that go above a thousand meters. What it has is a long and rugged sierra running along the middle axis of the island province from south to north. What it also has is a weather that tries to melt all your resolve. I tamed the two or, should I say, understood the challenges very well. But if you like to just hike up a trail to stand on a peak, that would not be difficult.

Try Osmeña Peak from Mantalongon, Dalaguete. You can instantly have a bragging right, climbing Cebu’s highest peak at 1,015 meters above sea level. Everybody does that nowadays. Take a quick selfie when it is not too crowded or roll in Facebook Live to your wall in real time. The view of craggy hills, the seas on both sides of the island, and the farmed little valleys are just amazing.

For me, I would not take that route though. To better appreciate Osmeña Peak, you need to climb it from the other side, in Badian. That is what I have been advocating since the time I returned there solo in 2013 after a long hiatus. I brought all my guests and friends to Osmeña Peak from Badian only. They could either continue to Dalaguete or go back to Badian. It can be done with just a dayhike.

On January 23, 2018, after the Sinulog, I got two guests. They are a couple from Ireland. The husband is in his 60s while the wife is in her middle 50s. Based on their ages, it would not be hard for me. Or so I thought. What is more, they would stay overnight at the peak. The only thing that got me worried is the two Silangan Rev20 tents that I would carry for their use and mine. Apart from that, I have everything under control. No big deal.

I fetched them at a resort in Moalboal where they were staying and introduced myself. They are Jerry and Gillian Dawson. Both are very fit than I previously thought they were and looked much younger than their age. They must have lied about their true ages but that is absurd thinking. Anyhow, I got to give them the best guideship service in this whole danged country, with my carabao English.

Seriously, I could now engage in an understandable conversation with foreigners which that ability was unthinkable when I lived in a cave. My English may not be perfect to an English-speaking national but to a non-speaking one, I can be mistaken sometimes as a native speaker. Sort of. Yes, many years ago I do not have the confidence to speak to foreigners but I overcame this fear as I learned on my own public speaking skills.

Lest you misunderstood me, I do not guide people to the mountains, like everybody else is doing. I am not a mountain guide. I am more of a wilderness guide. Even when the places I bring people to are not anymore wilderness, the methods and interactions I used and engaged for my guests lean more towards a wilderness setting. It is a different field and it is not for everybody to acquire or learn.

Now going back to the hike at hand, the Irish couple is ready and excited. The resort has contacted a tricycle to transport us to Badian. We pass by first to a fast-food outlet on the way and order nine hamburgers for the three of us. The couple did not prepare the food I advised for us but they have their own water. I brought my own water also and my Mil-Tec rucksack is heavy.

At Badian, we take another tricycle to the mountainous village of Basak and start our walk at 09:00, following the Malagaring Trail. The lower hills are hot and humid but the couple is fine. The rocky slopes are farmed with bitter gourd, squash and corn and farming communities dot the landscape. On the back of us, the coastline of Badian begins to be appreciated as we gained elevation.

After an hour, we were now at the community of Malagaring and taking a brief rest. From hereon, the trail will pass by uninhabited areas which would be where the treeline is. Despite my deliberate control of the pace, I begin to feel exhaustion and the backpack seemed heavy for comfort. I stop often to give myself a break and, at the same time, I would not remiss on my duties to entertain my guests.

My hard breathing cannot interfere with my conversations and it takes great control to do that. It is difficult to engage in such while walking and gaining elevation. Much more so with this Irish couple. On one of these breaks, I learned that they participate in adventure races in the UK and across the Channel. They lived an active lifestyle and their preferred diet are vegetables and fish. They have no choice with the burgers and they will burn it anyway.

They never seem to tire. They carried day packs and in it were the burgers divided amongst themselves, cold-weather clothing, a liter of water, bottles of Gatorade, chocolates and bananas. Aside from the two tents, I also carried a 3-liter Camelbak bladder, a cook set, spoon-fork set, 250 ml of denatured alcohol, a Trangia burner, an IFAK, my fire kit, a Cold Steel Bushman, a Mora Companion and a Victorinox Trailmaster.

When you get in the treeline, the trail goes up and up and the weather changes from hot and humid to mild and cool. The path snaked in among craggy slopes and forests and there are always topics to talk about, if you just use your imagination, just to give yourself a brief moment of rest without letting them know that you need a break. But when the pressure behind me is too great, I would be honest enough to raise a white flag.

The constant gain in altitude also cooled my body and the chance of overheating due to overexertion is negated. We reach the most remote village of Patong and, good for me, there is a store here that could provide me a cold bottle of Coke. This is one of the luxuries of hiking this trail: there is always a cold Coca Cola near the end of the rainbow. It is like an ace in the sleeve.

Happy to have powered myself with sugared beverage and ten minutes of rest, I am now game to accept the pressure from their non-stopping pace. We arrive at the base of the peak at last and the couple proceeds to the summit while I remained at the only store selling softdrinks here. While enjoying the drink, I learned from the lady storekeeper that she owns the three small red cottages across us and it is vacant.

If I set up our tents, most likely it would already be crowded on the main and secondary campsites since it is a weekend. Besides, it might be very noisy on the campsite which might leave an ugly impression on my guests. Added to that is somebody from the side of Dalaguete who would be asking payments for camp use and garbage collection. Both Dalaguete and Badian claimed Osmeña Peak as theirs.

If you come by way of Dalaguete you will be charged a guide fee when it is quite idiotic to utilize a guide since the peak can be walked by yourself easily even with eyes closed. The lady storekeeper found the fees extracted by Dalaguete as unfair to both Badian and the visitors. They are taking advantage of this because of the easy access to Osmeña Peak from their side.

The lady storekeeper told me this because she happens to serve for a long time as the village chairperson of Patong. I understand her statement very well since I know, for a long time, that the peak had always been a part of Badian since the time I first visited it in 1992. That is why I always start from Badian because I honored their ownership of Osmeña Peak. I told you I am no ordinary guide. Besides that, I write for this blog.

When Jerry and Gillian came back, I mentioned to them the three little red cottages owned by the lady storekeeper and they were much happy when I also mentioned that it would be noisy on the other side. We would not have to set up tents and sleep in it. The Irish couple claimed one while the other was provided free for me, courtesy of the very kind lady storekeeper. She also provided a thermos with hot water and cups should we drink coffee.

We dined on hamburgers. They with Gatorade and water. I with coffee, Japanese miso soup and water. As is with this time of the year, the northeast monsoon brought winter colds of Siberia and Japan to the tropics and it would be cold, much more so with the wind chills. We opt to retire early but, once in a while, I would answer the call of nature outside. I did at 22:00 and at 02:00 and each time I still see people going up the peak.

When I woke up at 05:00 the following day, January 24, there is no shortage of visitors to the peak. I wonder how much money Dalaguete collects from these unwary people. It is indeed unfair. We eat the last of the hamburgers for breakfast and everybody had coffee. I keep the place as tidy as possible by burning all our small garbage last night and bringing the rest down to our next destination today.

We will be going back to Badian, taking the same route we did yesterday but, this time, it would all be downhill. We leave early at 06:30 and Jerry and Gillian loved the early morning walk when the birds are most active with their melodies. We walk lazily, enjoying the silent moments and keeping our footings as steady as possible. We meet no locals just like yesterday at the forested zones.

When we reach Malagaring, mountain life begins to be felt. We take a different trail and reach the Basak Elementary School. We hired motorcycles to take us down the highway. Once we are there, we board a bus bound for Cebu City. Jerry and Gillian would have to go back to their hotel in Moalboal while I would be going home. The Irish couple would be travelling to Palawan tomorrow and we parted ways when the bus stopped at Moalboal.

Document done in LibreOffice 5.3 Writer.

CAMINO CEBU JOURNAL: Day One and Day Two

DAY ONE :::: IN FAITH, EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE. Never have I dreamed that a Camino de Santiago would become a reality here in Cebu, Philippines in my lifetime. Yes, I have dreamed of this to happen sometime ago but it would have taken me longer, maybe never at all, under my own power. With divine intervention, this dream goes on “warp speed”, defying everything impossible. Praise be to God!

In three months, the Camino de Santiago in Cebu became a reality, after it was seriously broached by Rev. Fr. Scipio “Jojo” Deligero of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Señor Santiago Apostol of Compostela, Cebu to Bro. Cedee Neo of Doneo Host Making Community last March. The Municipality of Compostela found the undertaking a great honor to the town and would benefit the townsfolk and so lent its whole support. Even the town mayor, Hon. Joel Quiño, would come along.

 

Today, July 6, 2017, is another date with destiny. I just finished the first Thruhike of Cebu last February 14, 2017, churning around 400 kilometers in 27 days from Liloan Point, Santander to Bulalaque Point, Maya, Daanbantayan. Doing another long hike in a span of six months is mind boggling and the wife does not like it at all. The outdoors is now my bread and butter. I have sacrificed opportunities to earn before and during the Thruhike and now this, the Camino. I simply will donate my time, talent and everything for Jesus, the Mother Church and St. James.

Like the Thruhike, this is something that I not let pass away. It is a rare opportunity, not for recognition but for the benefit of my soul, who would reap the spiritual rewards gained after engaging in a pilgrimage such as the Camino de Santiago. I have identified the route of the Camino, following the wishes of Fr. Jojo that it should start from the Municipality of Badian. Fr. Jojo is from there and so is another parish dedicated to St. James.

I have requested Jonathaniel Apurado as my subaltern for the Camino. He fulfilled very well that during the Thruhike and he would walk as last man while I take the point. Coming with Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel are Jemmelyn and Roderick Montesclaros, Mizar Bacalla, Roger Montecino and Alvie Rey Ramirez, the official photographer. Our food for the pilgrimage is almost the same for the Thruhike which Jon and I carry today. Everything is set except for the night stopovers. Fr. Jojo’s wishes. I surrender that to God’s hands.

At 03:00, I picked up a pebble from my backyard and start my pilgrimage from my home in GL Lavilles Street, walking to the gateway of the South Road Properties, just right across Plaza Independencia. Jon arrive thereafter and, a few more minutes, a hired passenger van came to pick us up. Inside are Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel and the rest of the pilgrims. This would be a great adventure for them all, walking on places where they do not know yet but it is the least of their concerns. They are all there for the Camino de Santiago.

We arrive at the St. James the Apostle Parish of Badian at 05:53 for a special pilgrim’s mass concelebrated by Rev. Fr. Marion Mejia and Fr. Jojo. This parish was established in 1825, older than the one in Compostela, which was erected in 1866. The reasons why the latter was chosen as the pilgrimage destination is because it is an archdiocesan shrine and it is located in a town which namesake is the same as that of the Camino’s destination in Spain. After the mass, we had our pilgrim’s passport stamped with the seal of the parish.

We walk across the courtyard into the ancestral home of Fr. Jojo where we were all treated a fine traditional small-town breakfast. Fr. Jojo meets his 98-year old mother and asked of her blessings for our pilgrimage. At 07:45, the spiritual journey starts. I sent a text message to the Badian Police Station informing them of our hike as we follow a road going up the hilly regions of Badian. The ascent is gentle but it would not be like that in a few hours, I believe.

I am the most worried of everyone, possibly Jon’s burden too. I do not know how they would fare in a long journey on a terrain and climate that is found on the most rugged part of Cebu? I know their medications, allergies and hereditary illness but the stress of a hard physical activity could cause changes in their mental and physical conditions. I have seen that and I am made to believe that they have prepared and worked out their bodies for this. But my attention is trained always on Fr. Jojo and that is why I walked so super slow.

Fr. Jojo has gout on each ankle. He found walking very excruciating and burdensome. He told me once that walking from the rectory to the altar and back is difficult for him but he has to fulfill his sacerdotal duties. Yet, despite that handicap, he does not back away from fulfilling another obligation, as a steward and shining example of his flock, to engage in a painful pilgrimage for his parish that was founded on the deeds of St. James the Apostle and of the Camino de Santiago.

I asked Roger to transfer most of the load inside the bag of Fr. Jojo into his bag and to Mizar’s. Fr. Jojo seemed to walk better with less weight on his brown Camelbak 35-liter bag now. I advised Roger to provide him a walking stick which could aid his balance and could also help in lessening the pains on his aching ankles and knees. A bleached scallop shell with a painted Cross of St. James hanged from the front of his Camelbak, announcing to the world that he is on a pilgrimage.   

As an experienced wilderness guide, I treat my attention to all my guests equally and fairly but there are a few exceptions. Like Fr. Jojo’s case. And then that of Mayor Joel. As a local executive and politician, you cannot be too sure with people they dealt with. He came incognito without a police escort. I used to work in VIP protection and I know. As much as possible, I want to be closer to Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel. More like an extra tasking for me but the experience afford me a rare opportunity which is denied to most guides and would be very useful for me in future situations.

We take rests as frequently as possible for a few seconds to a few minutes while in the village of Dagatan. On the way, I pick up a fossilized scallop and carried it along. I changed my route at the last minute when I consulted with a local and regretted that decision later. My original route was to take a well-beaten path in Dagatan that connect to another road that would lead to Tigbao and the village of Santican. I decide to follow the same road instead until we reach the village of Tiguib at 10:00 and take a longer rest.

Trying to correct my earlier blunder, I consulted with locals and we have to follow a trail which would lead to a public school in the village of Sohoton. Thankfully, there are water sources where we stopped and refilled bottles when there is an opportunity. We arrive at Sohoton at 13:00 and decide to enjoy noonbreak. We are already behind schedule but I am optimistic that we would cross over that high mountain range which separates Badian from Dalaguete before dusk.

After an hour, we continue on our journey. I cannot force a hurried pace. Our speed depends on our slowest member, Fr. Jojo. Refreshed by the rest and able to hire a local guide, everyone’s spirit goes back to square one. We walk on trails and on places where there are no more inhabitants. We pass by forests and gained good progress but exchanged it with rests and more rests. Dusk had claimed the forests and then night time came.

We longed for open spaces and we have that at around 19:30. It is good to see the stars again. The local guide led us through farm trails until we could see faint glows of light from a few solitary houses which would be very far away. We are now at Candungaw Gamay, according to our guide, and the name sounds so sweet to my ears. It means that below us would be Dalaguete and we have to go down a steep trail in darkness. Did I not tell you that Fr. Jojo is afraid of heights?

At 21:15, we are now on the edge of a cliff and there is that steep trail that would lead down to Dalaguete. Hearing the sound of a distant motorcycle from somewhere raised our zest. Fr. Jojo was having a hard time and every available hand have to help him negotiate the trail inch by inch, hobbling on his two feet when he is able or letting his butt do the walking. It would have been difficult for Fr. Jojo if it was daylight. We finally reach the bottom at 22:40 but, unknown to us, people were looking for us.

A Suzuki Multicab arrived to investigate the lights given off by our flashlights and they were smiling and feeling relieved. They were asked by Rev. Fr. Eligio Almazol Jr. of the Our Lady of Consolation Parish in Manlapay to assist in finding us. We thank our local guide and paid him more than he used to earn. Immediately, I let Fr. Jojo, Mayor Joel, Jem, Roderick, Mizar and Roger go with the vehicle while Alvie, Jon and I walk the rest of the muddy trail to a dirt road. The Suzuki came back for us and brought us to the parish. It is 23:15.

Outside the rectory, we sit on monobloc chairs and quite relieved after that very long hike. I ask forgiveness from everyone for my mistake of changing the itinerary at the last minute and promised that it would not happen again. Fr. Jojo is talking and laughing with Fr. Jun. Cold beer are offered and I took one. It is a nice feeling when cold beer slides down inside your throat. I finished it in four quick gulps and I asked for another one. The priest’s men are busy and they are cooking up something. I could offer a hand but it is better if I just sit and sip cold beer and not be in their way.

A very late dinner – a midnight meal – is placed on the table. We were left to our own world facing our own dining plate, spoon, fork, drinking glass, warm rice, steaming free-rein chicken soup, fried pork, native delicacies, ewers filled with ice and water, cold softdrinks and a bonus of bottomless coffee if it need be. These were the things and the nutrition I need before saying goodnight to the first day.

DAY TWO :::: MY BODY COMPLAINED ABOUT having to wake up at 08:00, though I was supposed to do that at 05:00, if you follow the itinerary by heart. I dismissed the alarm when it was on its first five notes, fearing that the unwanted noise would deprive the pilgrims of their much-desired sleep. Yes, my body muscles felt so tight and morose. The cold weather helped me to love the warm but soft mattress that I am laying on.

My blood seemed to be in a stupor but I have to rise up and rally them for breakfast. As I stood up, so were Alvie, Jonathan and Roger. They were watching my body language all the time and also feared to disturb my sleep. Automatically, the parish rectory became a beehive of activity. For lack of time and space, I decide not to take a bath. The cold weather would have to do with that, I guess, although I would not accept it.

When everyone has tidied up, we proceed to the Our Lady of Consolation Parish, just a few meters nearby. A Holy Mass is going to be celebrated by Fr. Jun at 09:00 and it is to be before the schoolchildren and faculty of Manlapay Elementary School. Our very own Fr. Jojo would join him at the altar. The children from six to fourteen years of age, about a hundred or more, barely filled up the six rows of pews.

The place of worship is huge and circular, or so I thought. The roof has an unusual shape. It looked more like a giant scallop! Good God! The symbol of the Camino de Santiago! St. James must have played optical tricks upon my eyes. How could that be? We are here on short notice and the church is just a year old. My skin curled at the sudden goose bumps I am experiencing but I kept to myself what I saw and understood.

After the church service, we go back to the rectory to pack our things back to our bags and to eat a full breakfast. We thanked Fr. Jun and his staff. It is not every day that they have visitors from different places, especially pilgrims doing the Pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago, which is kind of strange for them, since it is the first time they heard of such. Except, of course, Fr. Jun. He is most happy of the visit.

It is late now but I am consoled to the fact that we would be walking on the “Vegetable Highway”, a long stretch of familiar terrain which I have had the privilege of walking twice over the last three years, the latest of which was the Thruhike. We left at 10:30 and crossed over to Argao. I sent a text message to the Argao Police Station informing them of our presence. The day is pleasant and cloudy and the first few minutes was spent praying the rosary while walking on the road. The whole five mysteries.

At 12:15, we stop by a roadside house in the village of Linut-od to observe our noonbreak. The village head, Hon. Paz Caminse, entertained us as we boiled water for coffee and instant noodles. I have provided each pilgrim a set of energy bars as our nutrition for lunch, a practice that I have favored during the Thruhike, to control noonbreaks to an hour or less, but the pilgrims found this food strange and unpalatable. They are used to rice and warm food.

By 13:30, we proceed with our journey. The harder surface of the “Vegetable Highway” seemed to be felt on each pilgrim’s feet as everyone took frequent rests. I would not worry if we are overtaken by darkness. We are passing within habitations, although rugged and mountainous, yet the mountain road brought a sort of improvement in the people’s lives here. They could travel to the town centers easily now by motorcycles to sell their farm produce, secure their material needs and send children to schools. It is also very scenic.

At 16:00 we stop by a farm market in Bayabas, on the village of Cansuje. A patrol jeep from the Argao Police Station arrived to see how we are doing. The pilgrims decide to buy fresh meat from the market for dinner later on. The problem is, the meat would deteriorate after an hour without preservation. Someone has to bring it fast to the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish in the village of Colawin. Fr. Jojo has to ride a motorcycle with the meat so it could be cooked immediately. Someone would have to accompany Fr. Jojo on the principle of the buddy system. That would be Roger.

 

I am glad Fr. Jojo took that opportunity. He had suffered enough and he had already proven his steadfastness before his faith. At 16:35, we lurched forward, once more, dusk begins to overtake us. In dim light conditions, I missed the intersection going to Colawin. I proceed instead to the village of Alumbijud. A helpful local offered me a free motorcycle ride when he sensed me on the wrong way. I fully believed I was in the right direction but village peacekeepers on the lookout for us and who missed me passing by, suggested another intersection to the rest, which is why I was “lost”.

In darkness, we followed a beautiful concrete road, but consoled by the presence of policemen who would pass by in their patrol vehicle every now and then and us escorted by village peacekeepers on motorcycles, seeing to it that we are on the right track. We reach the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish at 20:35. Rev. Fr. Mario Villacastin welcomed us inside the parish compound. Food is ready including the meat that Fr. Jojo and Roger have so judiciously transferred in haste. It had become braised pork.

 

Each pilgrim is equipped with a hammock with a bug net and there are plenty of trees to tie to. However, the fatigue factor of two days walk on mountainous terrain has taken their toll. Unlike Jon and me, the rest are not exposed to these kinds of difficulties. They preferred the bamboo gazebos, the wooden benches, even on concrete under a covered court. Jon preferred the protection of the covered court and so am I but there is only one place for a hammock and I had taken it.

My things are arranged for quick repacking during the first hours tomorrow and my mind is mentally doing its drill that it had practiced and perfected long ago. I do not like to be in the hours where people use the bathrooms all at the same time together. I preferred the hour when the tiger is on the hunt and where people can be snatched unawares. That is the hour I would take a bath and the water all to myself.

Total Distance Walked: 38.80 kilometers.

 Highest Elevation Gained: 2,629 feet. 

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