DAY THREE :::: HIS STRONG FAITH,
CARRIED HIM to two days of difficult terrain, a blunder on the first day,
extreme pain, unrelenting fatigue, fear of heights and a disdain of early
morning baths. Rev. Fr. Scipio “Jojo” Deligero, suffering from problematic gout
on both ankles, remained unshaken. If he dropped out on the first day, the
first Camino de Santiago in Cebu would have been placed in a shaky debut. But
the devil cannot have his party yet. We are still in the game.
We have churned a total of 38.80
kilometers in 26 hours of walking spread in two days and that is unbelievable,
considering that the people I led barely walked outside of their homes and
workplaces. The long hours were caused by a controlled pace I imposed to keep
Fr. Jojo in the flow. Let us see how the pilgrims would fare in Day Three? The
worst happened in Day One. It is the crucible, the deciding moment, if ever a
pilgrim should abandon or proceed with his pilgrimage.
Today, July 8, 2017, is part of the
dance with destiny which started two days ago. Not just for me and the rest of
the pilgrims but also for the Archdiocese of Cebu, the Province of Cebu, the
Municipality of Compostela and the Archdiocesan Shrine of Señor Santiago de
Apostol, the parish for which Fr. Jojo is performing his sacerdotal duty. To
walk it is a sacred undertaking where your soul would benefit. Yes, it is a
spiritual journey.
The Camino de Santiago is a route
in Spain which is more than a thousand years old and is walked by millions of
pilgrims to through so many generations. It follows the route of St. James the
Apostle when he left Jerusalem to fulfill his vows as one of the chosen twelve.
The journey starts from your doorsteps and ultimately wind up at Compostela, a
place in Galicia, where our own Compostela in Cebu got its name. Fr. Jojo
wanted a Camino here.
My pilgrimage indeed started two
days ago from my home and I am now awoken by my preset alarm in the compound of
the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish, here in the village of Colawin,
Municipality of Argao. After I had bathed, I am all set to hear an early
morning mass to be celebrated together by Rev. Fr. Mario Villacastin and Fr.
Jojo. I feel blessed to hear concelebrated masses for three straight days.
One of those who walked his own
Camino is the incumbent mayor of the Municipality of Compostela – Hon. Joel
Quiño. Mayor Joel have prepared himself for this occasion. He would surely be
missed behind his desk, along with those volumes of documents which need to be
scrutinized, re-studied and signed. But where communication signals are
present, he cannot escape answering the mobile phone.
The rest of the pilgrims are the
couple Jemmelyn and Roderick Montesclaros, Mizar Bacalla, Roger Montecino,
Alvie Rey Ramirez and Jonathaniel Apurado, who is my subaltern and is assigned
to sweep the rear. Jon have fulfilled that task during that historic Thruhike
of the Cebu Highlands Trail which we did in 27 days and 400+ kilometers from
Liloan Point, Santander to Bulalaque Point, Daanbantayan.
This was the Thruhike that caught
the attention of Fr. Jojo from which this Camino de Santiago is now being
walked after being hatched just 3 months ago. This pilgrimage route here in
Cebu, would start from the St. James the Apostle Parish in Badian and would end
at the Archdiocesan Shrine of Señor Santiago de Apostol in Compostela. It would
follow some stretch of the CHT which would be rugged, undulating and scenic.
Instead of among bushes, we would sleep in rectories.
So there is no need really to carry
those bulky tents but all of us have hammocks and tarpaulin sheets. Then again,
I am beginning to question myself of the wisdom of bringing these hammock sets
with them? The mountain parishes can accommodate any number of pilgrims in
their rectories and where space is wanting they can always knock on the
kindness of their parishioners.
If and when Cebu’s Camino de
Santiago would become established and be renowned, the influx of pilgrims would
create an economy which would favor the mountain communities found along the
route. Mountain parishes are lonely and remote for any priest to be stationed
in and can bring about the best in their sacred office or, hopefully, not their
worst. A visit from people outside their places would lighten up their faces
and break the tedium of everyday living in far-out locations.
I believed Fr. Jojo had foreseen
all these things and it is his mission, a divine one, in spite of the physical
pain he is enduring day in and day out. After our provisional passports were
stamped by Fr. Mario, we left his parish at 08:00, walking up the road towards
the next stop. The day is sunny and warm. In a few more hours, this warmth
would be intense and would bore into each pilgrim’s resolve.
I am used to extremes of weather
and the harshness of the mountain terrain but I cannot comprehend how they
could still keep up with my pace, even if I deliberately controlled it. At this
moment, pain would be most felt. Are they hiding something? I see now. They
carried less. The heaviest would be water and those hammock sets. They need not
worry about their food. Jonathan and I carried it all and there is no sign that
the supply will ever be consumed. That would be less weight, if ever. But when?
The “Vegetable Highway” brought us
to the village of Bae, in the Municipality of Sibonga. I sent a text message to
the Sibonga Police Station about our presence. After more kilometers of walking
and I did not see them anymore when I looked back. This road twisted among and
along hills and valleys. I arrive at the village of Libo at 10:30 and waited
for them. It is not difficult to find their way to where I am for there are
habitations lining along the route where they could just ask directions.
After 15 minutes of waiting, I sent
a text message to Jon. Signal is erratic and I gave up. 30 minutes became 90
minutes and my furrows are now deep. Just when I went back to find them, I saw
them midway inside a police patrol jeep laughing. Policemen were dispatched by
their station to provide security and assist us if need be. They already had
and are now reluctant to drop them all here. I loath joining them in a free
ride. An hour of ride would be about 4-5 hours of walking in the same distance.
I just hope that nobody would see
us or understood what we were doing. That idea have not come of age yet but, to
my conscience, that is cheating. Forget it. I am thinking like a human again.
Leave that to God’s hand. I cannot question Fr. Jojo’s wisdom. His thoughts are
much deeper than mine. I am just the pathfinder and the terrestrial navigator.
Interpreting divine interventions are beyond my understanding. Navigation, it
seems to me, has a parallel universe in the heavens.
The patrol jeep drop us finally at
the village of Dakit, in the Municipality of Barili. They took a longer route.
Of course, the policemen could not drive over a trackless mountain direct to
the village of Mantalongon. It would need feet to do that on a trail that is
still in my memory. Oh yes, I just navigate by memory. The CHT was explored,
completed and hiked through without the aid of satellite navigation systems. I
preferred traditional means.
We walk the Carcar-Barili Road
until we reach Mantalongon at 15:02. This village hosted me and Jon last
January during the Thruhike and it was not difficult to find the location of
the San Isidro Labrador Parish here. Rev. Fr. Dennis James Acedo welcomed us to
his parish and hosted a dinner later on our behalf. We stayed in the old
rectory for the night and the rest was most welcome.
DAY FOUR :::: I WOKE UP THE WAY I
liked it to be, earlier than 05:00, as is printed on the itinerary today, July
9, 2018. After taking our baths and breakfast, we left the San Isidro Labrador
Parish at 06:42. But not after our provisional passports were stamped with the
parish seal by Fr. Dennis himself. I was amused at the good priest doing
everything beyond priestly duties to keep his parish afloat in such difficult
times and it would be best I not tell you. The stay has given us plenary
indulgence since it is the jubilee year of the church.
We followed the highway going to
the boundary of Carcar City. An unpaved road to the left would be our route to
the next stop tonight. The pilgrims start to recite the rosary on its third day
while I sent a text message to the Carcar City Police Station. We are now on
the approaches of the village of Valencia and there is a brand new concrete
road. It is a warm day and the weight carried inside my 55-liter High Sierra
Titan had not changed since Day One.
When you are on concrete pavement
you tend to walk faster. Your mind is analyzing the length and angle of the
shadows. The sooner you get out from there, the better. Valencia is a highly
populated semi-urban setting and that scene would repeat itself as we walk into
the next village of Buenavista. Roderick, Jem and I waited for them in a small
parish of Santo Niño de Cebu. The shady
trees on the patio shielded us from the heat of the 10 o’clock sun.
A text message from Jon woke up my
Cherry Mobile U2. They were looking for us. I gave them my direction but they
interpreted it through another route. Jesus, they took the wrong way and they
are a half hour ahead. I did not retrace my steps but proceed on where one of
these roads would lead us. I increased my pace and the couple Roderick and
Jemmelyn are game enough to increase theirs. We crossed a big bridge and we are
now on the village of Calidngan.
My group arrive first at the San
Isidro Labrador Parish at 11:30. After an exchange of text messages with
Jonathan, they finally found their way and reach the parish at 11:40. Rev. Fr.
Benjie Contapay arrived from his sacerdotal visits in one of the villages at
11:45. He welcomed us all and gathered his staff to prepare food for us. Just
lying down on the bare tiled floor under the shade of a roof is most welcome.
Siesta before a meal. Whatever. My body direly needed it.
We get to take lunch at 12:30. I
took many servings. We like it. For this day, nobody touched their energy bars.
Warm food is better. By miles. After the fulfilling meal and the cold
refreshments, the temptation to go horizontal again is so strong but we have a
long way to go. By 13:00, we say goodbye to Fr. Benjie and his staff and took
to the rough roads once more and encountered our first rain. In an hour, we
were now crossing over to the village of Balungag, Municipality of San Fernando
and I immediately dispatched a text message to their police station.
At 16:00, we are now at the village
of Tubod. A free-flowing natural spring refreshed us and we topped off our
water bottles. From hereon, we would be traversing over the “carabao highway”
towards the next Municipality of Pinamungahan. This is a trail that had been
carved deep by many carabao sleds over the years and today I have seen and
walked it for the very first time in its muddy state. It is quite nasty and
tricky. I can hear angry and excited voices behind me. I slipped once but I
cannot know of how many times each pilgrim had.
The slow progress carried us till
dusk. By the time we reach a road it was already 18:00 but the presence of a
store selling cold drinks brought back the pilgrims’ strength and composure.
Across us is another trail, downhill and rocky. In daylight, you could see the
Lamac Valley but it is better to negotiate it at nighttime with Fr. Jojo. He
just cannot stand looking from a high place. He can never be a saint. You see,
saints are placed on a high pedestal on the highest places outside of a church
facade. Haha! Just joking.
Guided by lights and by helping
hands, Fr. Jojo made it safely down to the village of Sibago, in Pinamungahan.
It is 19:45 and the other pilgrims kept asking me how far the village of Lamac
is. Signs of fatigue and pain. They now felt it all. Who would not. I felt it
too and the pain on both my feet are great as well as on my shoulders where the
pads of my heavy backpack rubbed. We are now walking on dirt road and I was
hoping to find a motorcycle for Fr. Jojo. It never came and, in these places at
these hours, everything stops to a standstill.
Stepping on a concrete road raised
everyone’s morale. A few houses still have lights and then, after more walking,
the first local seen outside a house. We asked when there is someone out there.
Nobody trusts people who travel in darkness. Everyone is suspicious of us even
though we have a Roman Catholic priest and a municipal mayor in our midst. Of
course, we do not advertise that with banners and megaphones. We are just
pilgrims walking on the Camino de Santiago. We liked it that nobody shows
interest on what we do. The hinterlands are quite different from urban areas.
At 21:00, after negotiating a few
streets, we arrive at the San Isidro Labrador Parish of Lamac. Rev. Fr.
Wilfredo “Boy” Genelazo welcomed us with a case of cold beer, cold lemon juice
and a warm dinner since he knew of our coming. After almost an hour of happy
conversations, Fr. Boy facilitated for our free stay inside the Hidden Valley
Mountain Resort. As soon as I got settled for a half hour, I took a bathe.
Dreamland automatically took over.
Total Distance Walked: 53.33
kilometers.
Highest Elevation Gained: 1,961 feet.
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