2021-041 | ADRENALINE ADVENTURE HIKE: SEGMENT III

BOUYED UP BY THEIR SUCCESS of Segment I in February 2018 and Segment II in May 2018, Team Adrenaline Romance and Friends is on the right track to making their bucket wish of the Cebu Highlands Trail doable. They are now ready to snare the third pennant – Segment III – this August 18 and 19, 2018. It had become a commitment. A concrete undertaking which they now have the feel and the grasp. 

We started from the Cebu South Bus Terminal at 05:30 bound for Mantalongon, Barili; the terminus of Segment II. The blogging couple, Gian Carlo and Sheila Mei, were excited of another opportunity of another outdoor exercise and witness the other side of Cebu that have been denied them. With them were Apol and Kier and both are multi-disciplined outdoors enthusiasts just like the couple.

 

The bus dropped us off at the Mantalongon Public Market at 07:40 and we immediately searched the place for something to fill our tummies. We found one small family-run eatery, still closed, but through our urgings, opened prematurely to accommodate us. We ordered a breakfast of steamy fish soup, local noodles, omelet with bitter gourd and rice. 

Segment III starts from Mantalongon, Barili and goes south to Mantalongon, Dalaguete. Normally, this walk would have taken me three days but, Team Adrenaline Romance decided to lengthen the mileage on the second day to compensate for waiving out the third day and reserved this activity for two days instead. That was the plan. 

We started at 08:25, going by way on a path at the back of the market which led to a low range of hills which barely had tall trees. The sun was very warm at that hour but, looking back to where we had come from, the valleys beyond Mantalongon were still shrouded in mists. We arrived at a dirt basketball court for it was shady and stopped here for a while to munch on iced candies. 

After 15 minutes, we continued and arrived at Hunob Elementary School at 09:45. We were in Guadalupe, Carcar City and, where the unpaved road meet an asphalted one, we would be walking all the way through on the “Vegetable Highway”, a provincial road constructed in the ‘90s designed to open up a corridor where produce from mountain farms can now be transported and sold.

When we walked for about thirty meters on the road, we were overtaken by a team of police personnel on motorcycles. They were from the Carcar City Police Station and they were commanded by their superior to escort us along the way. We were embarrassed about such kindness and special attention on our cause. We tried to free them of such responsibilities but they were adamant. 

When we were walking for about five minutes, a police patrol vehicle arrived with armed policemen and what seemed to be four more full-packed soldiers. They were from the Barili Police Station and they were here on the same purpose as that of the Carcar policemen. They came to reconnoiter our presence and, once satisfied, they went back their way and will wait for us once we cross the border in Barili. 

Could their sudden presence somehow connected to a suspected Abu Sayyaf member recently apprehended in Carcar City for keeping a cache of firearms and explosives? I doubt that they were profiling us because of that. Anyway, I never walk among the hinterlands, much less guide people, without making courtesy calls on Capitol and the Cebu Police Provincial Office. These are my cornerstones of safety. 

Anyway, the cops from Carcar would sprint away on their motorcycles ahead and leave us to our own company. The “vegetable highway” is so beautiful on a stretch where it goes into a small valley and up in Napo, Carcar City. On the roadsides are fruits from the milla milla vine which sustained us and relieved our parched throats caused by our physical activity, heavy loads and by the warmth of day.

 

When we arrived at 10:30 in a place called Lamac, in Mayana, Barili, the cops and soldiers from Barili took over from where the Carcar policemen left off. We plead with our new escorts to rid us of their duties but, just like the previous team, they insisted and even invited us to ride while, they, would walk. We gave up. We invited them, instead to lunch in a corner store where there is a videoke. 

When we started to move out at 11:30, after our siesta, we discovered that the police patrol was gone. At last, we can walk freely. No sooner have we gone for a few minutes than another police vehicle arrived with flashing blue-and-red lights. They were from the Sibonga Police Station. Again, we pleaded to them to rid us off their watch and, again, they swore to protect us as best as they could.

We dropped that idea of walking in solitude as the police patrol followed behind us in a crawling pace. We were obliged to move faster. The secret to the success of walking the Cebu Highlands Trail was not about brisk walking and having the strength to withstand the rigors of terrain difficulty and distances. It was leisurely walking. I designed the CHT for the average hiker and for practicality’s sense.

 

Since the first hour, we applied pressure on our pace due to the presence of policemen up ahead waiting for us or crawling behind you. When you are in that state, increasing the pace, you are bound to injure a muscle or a leg joint, you rest sparingly, arrive early on the first few hours and, mysteriously, an event which I could not explain, you would lag behind your itinerary as the day wears on.

In Segment I, we were ahead of schedule from 30 minutes to even as early as 90 minutes because, well, we walked slowly. In Segment II, we were behind by 30 minutes most of the time on the first day due to a late start but we maintained it without thinking so much about our delay and rewarded for it by enjoying the views, lots of rests and evened the day at the last hour without being stressed. 

Haste makes waste and causes grief to so many. I am always guided by this. Although we arrived at Lamac and enjoyed our lunch earlier by 30 minutes, it was caused by pressure. Such abnormal conditions on our pace would take effect later in the day or, perhaps, the next day on the weakest among us. We arrived at Basak, Sibonga at 12:30 and we were entertained by village officials with cold soda drinks.

 

We overextended our rest time to 30 minutes and have to resume our journey. We arrived in Libo, Sibonga at 13:50 and we stopped for a while to let Team Adrenaline Romance study the terrain before them. What they saw was a wide valley and a peak in the distance. I told them that we would arrive on the foothills of that mountain before dusk. They were in a state of unbelief for it was very far. 

We crossed a highway and were now in Papan, Sibonga, following the same “vegetable highway”. This time it is unpaved and it relieved our feet from walking to so many hours of asphalt pavement. We get to enjoy the scenery of picturesque farms and the rural communities, notwithstanding the company of our police escort. At 15:00, we were now in Bae, Sibonga and, not far, would be Argao.

We arrived at another highway, crossed it, and we were now in Mompeller, Argao. It is 15:45. Our kind and patient policemen from Sibonga Police Station passed their responsibilities to their counterparts of Argao Police Station and the 7th Regional Mobile Battalion, who all were waiting. We were placed in such an awkward moment with this lavish show of force and concern accorded on us. 

The village council of Mompeller had been expecting us and we were welcomed to stay at their multi-purpose building. The cops from the 7RMB soon left on their 6-by-6 truck when they saw that we are now secure and safe while the Argao policemen would stay and sleep with us. Meanwhile, I secured a 5-gallon bottled water from nearby for our cooking and drinking.

The building is an unfinished structure but it is big enough to accommodate the tents of Gian Carlo and Kier. Apol would opt to hang in her beloved hammock on the posts near the tents. I chose my spot on the farthest end where a narrow space is found between fence and the health center. The cops has their hammocks too and would crowd next to mine later. 

When everyone settled down, it was time to prepare the food for our dinner. I met and had a talk with the new village head and the few people that I have befriended while I passed by here. I slept here during my route exploration in February 2015 and during my seventh day of my Thruhike in January 2017. We ate at 19:00 and slept late due to unexpected visits by locals who were curious of our presence. 

We woke to a fiery-red sunrise on our second day, August 19. Immediately, the tents were dismantled to give space for cooking our breakfast and for our packed lunch. We left Mompeller at 07:30, thanking the village officials for their hospitality. Only the two cops from Argao would go with us. I advised them not to follow us but move on ahead and wait to save on fuel which they did. 

This arrangement would be advantageous to us since we would not be pressured by somebody “minding” behind you. Anyway, yesterday’s condition, as expected, took its toll on Sheila Mei, who suffered from muscle cramps. The availability of the Willys patrol vehicle allowed her to transfer her bag there and she walked on bravely without a load on concrete road.

Along the way, as we approach Tulang, Argao, she could not force herself forward for it was very painful. Just in time, the Jeep passed by and she has to submit to the will of her physical condition and left Gian Carlo and company. After 15 minutes, we were reunited with her in Tulang where there were locals cooking just-harvested corn on embers and we joined them in the humble feast eating corn. 

After 20 minutes of rest, we continued on our journey while Sheila Mei remained as passenger of the police patrol jeep. We still have a long way to go. We increased our pace as if the police were right behind us. Apol and Kier would not mind. They are used to it. Gian Carlo probably would adjust easily since he does not worry about Sheila Mei. 

We arrived early at Alambijud, Argao at 09:15 but it is just a drop in the bucket for this day. We could only shave a few minutes from an expected hike which would last through near midnight. When your mind is focused on one thing you tend to ignore the scenery or appreciate it half-heartedly. At 11:00, we were now ahead of the itinerary by 30 minutes and took an early lunch at a public market of Bayabas, in Cansuje, Argao. 

Despite the stressful thought of an extended walk, I insisted that we enjoy a full hour of rest. By 12:00, we were raring to cross to Dalaguete before dusk but we still have a long way to go. For as long as Sheila Mei recuperates in the police jeep, we have a chance we would reach Mantalongon, Dalaguete at around 20:00. We were now in Butong at 13:15 and stopped to rest at a heritage tree. 

Next was Linut-od, Argao which we copped at 14:15; then Bala-as, Argao at 15:15. Here, we rested for a full 30 minutes to prepare ourselves for the nocturnal hike by eating bread and dousing ourselves with cold soda drinks. This time, Sheila Mei would be joining us. At 15:40 we crossed over to Manlapay, Dalaguete and a lone policeman from the Dalaguete Police Station would be our escort.

We passed by Maloray, Dalaguete at 16:30 and Ablayan, Dalaguete at 17:45. The hard pavements, walked since morning, began to take its toll on our feet. Apol and Kier, used to foot racing, ran ahead to lessen the pain. Sheila Mei cannot keep up with the pace as her cramps recurred every now and then. Gian Carlo and I had to rest when she stops. 

After a very brave effort, Sheila Mei with Gian Carlo and I arrived at Mantalongon at 20:30 or an hour-and-a-half behind schedule. We were all tired and we decided not to pursue our plan of going home to Cebu City tonight. We asked the village officials if we could spend a night at their village center which they consented. Immediately, we prepared food for dinner and ate it at a late hour of 21:30. 

At 04:00 the next day, August 20, we left Mantalongon and rode a bus bound for Cebu. We arrived at 08:30 and, I know, all of them would time in for work later and I could just imagine how they would manage to retain their balance and composure as they try to focus on their work with all those pain they incurred hiking Segment III.

I have mentioned the commitment of Team Adrenaline Romance of their wish to harvest the CHT this year or the next and they now are now beginning to assemble their own map of where their direction as adventure bloggers go. Segment III is not for the weak of tenacity and determination. The couple have it, exemplified by Sheila Mei who never wavered in her resolve to end this segment, with injury or not. 

Team Adrenaline Romance have proven that they are as tough as anybody else on any given weekend. Segment I, Segment II and Segment III were one hell of a route. If you combine the three and clinched it in your belt, you could make it with the rest of the CHT. They now have amassed a total of 166.56 kilometers or 37.5 percent of the CHT and expect them to finish the year 2019 with Segment IV. Hopefully.   

Let me then give this space my sincerest thanks to the special attention heaped upon our event like Hon. Governor Hilario Davide III; to Police Colonel Edgar Allan Okubo of the CPPO; to the chiefs of police and their men coming from Carcar City, Barili, Sibonga, Argao and the 7RMB. The same goes to the officials and residents of Basak, Sibonga; Mompeller, Argao; and Mantalongon, Dalaguete; for their Cebuano brand of hospitality which is second to none.  

Gian Carlo and Sheila Mei wrote about their Segment III experience on the Adrenaline Romance Blog under two installments: 

Cebu Highlands Trail Segment III: Barili to Mompeller.

Cebu Highlands Trail Segment III: Mompeller to Mantalongon.

2021-039 | THE 3RD CAMINO DE SANTIAGO OF CEBU: DAY 1 & 2

THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO that caught the awareness of pilgrims in Cebu and, as far as Santiago de Compostela, Spain, is the one that was pioneered and walked by both Fr. Scipio Deligero and Mayor Joel Quiño last July 6-15, 2017. It started from Badian and seemed to disintegrate on the first day but, by divine designs, the pilgrims went on to finish it in on its tenth day at Compostela as planned. 

I am talking about the Camino Cebu from the South. It was the stuff of legends. Although I was there as the guide, the one who keeps everyone worried everyday, but it was not my show. My role was not that important for me. What is important is I helped Fr. Scipio and the Municipality of Compostela establish the Camino de Santiago in Cebu; a most ambitious undertaking for it was 175+ kilometers long.

Then came the second Camino de Santiago, which is a local version, but is the most popular, for it is kind to the knees and age. It is 28+ kilometers, walked for two days around Compostela and parts of Liloan. Fr. Vhen Fernandez and a pioneer 10-day pilgrim, Mizar Bacalla, takes credit for creating this route. Nevertheless, Fr. Gonzalo Candado walked its inaugural pilgrimage last July 18, 2018. 

The Archdiocese of Cebu has three parishes that are named after St. James the Apostle, from whose footfalls evolved the Camino de Santiago, first in Spain and, now, here in the Philippines, most notably, Cebu. These are found in Compostela, Badian and Sogod. The Camino de Santiago from Badian to Compostela had already been established. The one from Sogod to Compostela is expected to be next. 

But that has to take a back seat owing to the hosting by Compostela of the 2nd National Congress of St. James the Apostle Parishes and Devotees last February 5-6, 2019. Fr. Scipio directed this writer to refine the Camino from the South and the exploration work for routes were confined there in preparation for another Camino pilgrimage which would coincide with the event upon its tenth day. 

Then in June 2019, came the break. Fr. Scipio wanted the third Camino de Santiago established before he would end his term as parish priest of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santiago de Compostela come August. I was again commissioned to explore a route that would start from Sogod and end at Compostela. Studying the map, I concluded that I could accomplish this in five days.

My initial plan was going on solo but, then again, would it be nicer if I involve my fellow pilgrims? I tapped three ladies whom I guided on the Camino Cebu during the 2nd Jacobean Congress. These three were, to my observation, the fittest walkers among the ladies. So I accommodated Tata Reynes of Compostela and journalists Erl Durano and Grace Lina.

With blessings from Fr. Scipio, we proceeded individually to the St. James the Apostle Parish of Sogod in the early hours of June 18, 2019. I have already coordinated this route exploration with the Sogod LGU, the Capitol and the Cebu Police Provincial Office and I am expected at the places I marked in my itinerary. One last thing, I made a courtesy call to the parish priest. 

Fr. Eduardo Marcellones was very receptive as I explained to him my purpose and he invited me to speak before his parishioners in the middle of the Eucharistic Celebration and explained the Camino de Santiago to them. After the mass, we four were invited to breakfast by Fr. Marcellones. Then we departed at 07:45 after stamping our credenciales and officially started this northern Camino de Santiago.      

In my previous study of the map, there were no parishes located on the interior of Sogod and the nearest parish was that in Catmon town. I avoided, as much as possible, the Cebu North Road and seek parallel secondary streets going south but, at the end of a corner, I have to accept walking on this busy but dangerous highway.

 

I choose the part of the road were I and the rest of the pilgrims could see the oncoming traffic. We crossed the bridge over the Bawo Creek and we were now in Catmon. Their parish is located on a hill and I previously marked that spot before the town center where there is a narrow road going to there. At 08:45, we were now at the San Guillermo de Aquitania Parish seeking their parish stamp. 

The presence of the three ladies made it easier for people to understand the Camino de Santiago and the life of St. James the Apostle. So, this Camino of the North, was not only a pilgrimage, an exploration, an exercise of faith, but also as an informational campaign and awareness on the faithful Christian or otherwise. We now were, unofficially, the ambassadors of St. James or Santiago de Compostela. 

After securing the stamp mark at Catmon, the next parish nearest would be in Binongkalan, Catmon. It would be found by near the sea but you would have to walk this same highway. We left at 09:15 and avoided this highway by following another side street parallel, however short, then grit your teeth as the racing buses swept past by you. 

We arrived at Macaas, Catmon at 10:15 and sat on a shaded road shoulder where there is a beach nearby. The sea seemed to invite you amidst all this warmth. After 30 minutes of rest, we resumed our journey. At 11:45, in Catmondaan, Catmon, we decided to seek lunch in a family-run eatery. In a nearby public gym, we enjoyed siesta time, oblivious to a game of basketball by kids. 

By 13:00, we walked again on another but longer side street. It is very warm and the choice shades are on the other side of the road but we cannot exchange our safer side for that so we had to endure the exposure to the sun. At 14:00, we stopped by Panalipan, Catmon for rest, but we have to cross the highway to avail of shade which seemed to be plentiful on that other side. 

After 30 minutes of rest and cold soda drinks, we crossed again this highway to be on the exposed but safer side. We crossed over a bridge spanning Panalipan River and, this time, the highway goes steep and narrow and, with that, we go carefully and slowly. At the top of the rise, the familiar roof of the St. Joseph the Worker Parish loomed ahead. Our first day is about to end in Binongkalan. 

It is 14:50 and plenty of daylight hours left. But the parish and its rectory is abandoned. No matter, we would set up our shelters on its parking lot lined by pygmy coconut trees. Erl and Grace would share a tent while Tata opt for a hammock. Likewise, mine is a hammock which I find very convenient. We cooked our food and dined early. Then we called it a day at 19:00.

 

On the morning of the second day, June 19, a pickup arrived and out came Fr. Carlito Salve, the parish priest of St. Joseph the Worker Parish. He just came from Cebu City and did not know our presence. But he did expect us but not this day. He welcomed us but we had already taken our breakfast and, we thanked him for allowing us to camp at his parish even without his permission. 

We left at 07:45, after stamping our passports and carrying the blessings of Fr. Salve, following the same highway, passing by the KM 47 mark. After a false try on a road corner, I found the one true feeder road that would lead us to the hilly regions. I have not been here but I have explored places before that were much remote, beyond your comprehension. 

The road we followed was very serene, meeting just a few locals, who all were friendly, and replied our greetings with a smile and a nod of the head. Rustic farm scenery and remote homes dotted the countryside and, after a considerable walk of more than an hour on the bends, the rises and the downs of the hills, we rest at Cañangpas, Carmen at 09:00.

After a half hour, we proceed with our journey on places that are beautiful and peaceful until we reached a community where there is a village center at 10:00. We were now in Cantipay, Carmen. We decided to make a courtesy call to their officials and the ladies helped me explain our event – the Camino de Santiago and Santiago de Compostela. 

The hinterlands of Carmen is one of the places that experienced the presence of a militant organization whose purpose was the overthrow of the government. They came here disguised as missionaries, educators, businessmen, government representatives, politicians, community organizers or NGO workers. Then came the armed progressives who influenced and disrupted their way of living. 

Those events, which later led to conflicts and the polarization of communities left a bad imprint on the residents’ collective memories. It is very important that I show sincerity and respect on every community I passed and take time to explain to them that I am not what they think of me. I always have papers and identification cards for their own appreciation and understanding. 

After another fruitful 30 minutes of rest and rapport with village officials, we continued on, passing by more rustic farm scenes and crossing a bridge over Luyang River, where there is a signboard that it is under rehabilitation. It is under threat from commercial farming whose owners and managers has this habit of pouring huge amounts of chemical fertilizers in return for high yields. 

We arrived at a busy road and crossed it for another road corner which has a signage that we are now in Cantumog, Carmen and just 800 meters to the Our Lady of Mount Carmel Parish. We climbed up the road and arrived at the parish at 11:15 where we were received by the church workers. This parish is located on a hill where there is an adjacent family cemetery. 

Fr. Fiel Suico, the parish priest, we were told, was accommodating his seminary batch to a tour of the nearby Cebu Safari Park. He would return later for there would be an evening program. Meanwhile, we set up our shelters on the fringes of this very clean memorial park where it afforded a majestic view of the lower hills and the coastline. Likewise, we prepared our food for lunch.

 

At around 16:00, people began to converge on the open fields of the park and installed trappings for an event, which we knew would be in the evening. Later, a caravan of vehicles arrived where Fr. Fiel and his classmates alighted. They came from a field trip and it looks like there would really be a big event.

At 18:00, a Eucharistic Celebration was celebrated by Fr. Fiel and thirteen of his classmate-priests. What a blessing we were in. We never expected this. After the mass, many guests came to join in their celebration. An al fresco buffet table with all the food was made ready for everyone, including us “gate crashers”.

A five-piece band played danceable tunes to pep our appetite. In the mild melee of the early evening, we introduced ourselves to Fr. Fiel and our purpose of coming. He appreciated it that we made his parish as a stopover of this Camino from the North and he welcomed us to partake of more food as we wished, yes we would, and sing, which we could not. 

Fr. Fiel then gets hold of a guitar and sang songs popular in the ‘80s and the ‘90s. Fr. Fiel is a good singer and he is comfortable in singing at the repertoire of songs he had chosen. He is a rock star in his own right and he entertained everyone until his voice became hoarse. He is a priest that his flock could easily relate to. 

The night entertainment continued until 02:00 of the next day and, by that time, I was already dosing half-heartedly in my hammock. The dawn was cold but I am used to sleeping outdoors. In a few hours, I would be waking up with the crowing of the cocks for the third day of the Camino de Santiago which I hope you would read in the next episode. Thank you. iBuen Camino!

2021-024 | A CAMINO OF A MOTHER & HER DAUGHTER

IF YOU WOULD JUST BELIEVE, nothing is impossible. Marianne Leila S. Flores, a veterinary doctor and professor of the University of the Philippines, Los Baños Campus, Laguna, decides to take a leave of absence one morning of July 2019, for a different kind of vacation to Cebu. She brought her daughter with her, Frances Marie, to treat her for graduating BA in Fine Arts from the University of Santo Tomas. 

That vacation plan was intended for a pilgrimage walk through Cebu’s own Camino de Santiago, recently recognized by the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain, as an equivalent to the ancient but more famous Camino de Santiago during the 2nd National Congress of St. James the Great Parishes and Devotees held last February 2019 in Compostela, Cebu. She believed there is something of a connection with her to St. James since her maiden name is Santiago!   

 

The Camino Cebu is 175 kilometers in length, which starts from Badian in the south and climbs over the southern mountains going north before it goes down to Compostela. It is walked in ten days with a guide, since the Camino Cebu does not have directional signs yet compared to that in Spain. Likewise, there are no waypoints to follow the route online and cellular signals are wanting and weak on almost all of the places.   

It does not have albergues yet but what it has are eight mountain parishes which becomes your resting places for each night. Meals and beddings are provided in exchange for tokens of donations. What is more is, you can catch and attend a Holy Mass that might be scheduled on an early evening or an early morning, depending on each parish. It is a Camino that is still in its unadulterated form reminiscent during medieval times. 

As of this time in the development of the Camino Cebu, hiring a guide is the only option but guideship tours are nonexistent except for this writer. He is the only one available because this route was established through his industry and of his specialty as a local explorer and adventure guide. It is by a predictable twist of fate, that Doc Lei and Frances Marie choose this blogger as their guide.

 

I met them at the Cebu South Bus Terminal on the early hours of July 8, 2019. They arrived last night from Manila and they were sorely deprived of sleep. I hope they could catch up on sleep during our travel by bus to Badian, which is two-and-a-half hours away. The bus left the terminal at 03:25 and we expect to arrive at the earliest at 06:00, but we arrived at 05:35 instead.

We proceeded to the ancestral house of Fr. Scipio Deligero, located across the St. James the Apostle Parish. Fr. Scipio was the parish priest of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santiago de Compostela, our destination on this pilgrimage ten days from now, and he was visiting his aging mother. We came by way of an earlier invitation by him to partake of breakfast before we set out on our journey. 

The Camino de Santiago of Doc Lei and Frances Marie officially started at 06:50 of July 8 after having their credenciales stamped by the parish seal of St. James of Badian. The first day route is the hardest since you would be starting from almost sea level and progress to 780 meters elevation and it is 18+ kilometers long. Day One decides who proceeds to go on the journey and who does not. I aim to have both proceed and I led them along on an easy pace.

 

By 11:00, Doc Lei almost bogged down two kilometers before Tigbao, an upland village of Badian where we would take our noontime meal and rest. Lunch could wait and I let her rest for 30 minutes so she could recover from the fatigue of acclimatizing with the humid weather and the elevation gain. After that, she claimed her second wind and enjoyed the meal after arriving at 13:15 and claimed that one-hour rest.

We resumed at 14:30 and reached the Our Lady of Consolation Parish in Manlapay, Dalaguete at 19:05 after a lengthy fight on the notorious Ilong-ilong route of steep grades among forests. We were expected even though Fr. Eligio Almazol Jr. was not around to receive us. This was the first night stop and dinner was prepared for the three of us. The soft bed received my tired bones and body gracefully. I believed the mother and daughter felt the same and more! It rained that night. 

We left the Our Lady of Consolation Parish after breakfast and the parish seal stamping at 06:30 of July 9th – Day Two. We were walking on the “vegetable highway” to the next destination of the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish, Colawin, Argao. Dalaguete’s mild weather changed to humid, when we crossed the municipal boundary into Argao. However, the presence of so many water sources and the different flowering plants along the road kept us hydrated and inspired.

 

Doc Lei could not believe that anthurium of all colors are left on the roadsides without being “molested” by plant collectors. We stopped for a while at the 600-year old sacred fig tree (Local: balite) at Botong which nurtured a clear spring spouting through its roots. We stopped for lunch at 12:00 at the small market of Bayabas. After a mandatory rest of an hour, the Camino Cebu resumed and we reached our destination at 17:26 where Fr. Benedict Into welcomed us in. 

The third day (July 10) would be the longest of the routes at 26+ kilometers and the Camino de Santiago would snake along the “vegetable highway” once again in another expected warm tropical weather. After breakfast and the credencial stamping, we left at 07:35, already quite late due to the warm hospitality imposed on us by the parish ladies, who insisted that we carry food along for our mid-day meal and for snacks.

After crossing over to Sibonga, it became very warm. We rested at Bae, Papan and Basak to conserve our energies and to keep us cool. We stopped at Cauluhan, Basak, to partake of lunch that we dutifully carried for hours. By 13:15, we continued and then it begins to go cloudy. We walked without rest until we arrived at Hunob, Guadalupe, Carcar City at 16:30. After 15 minutes, we walked on and arrived at the San Isidro Labrador Parish, Mantalongon, Barili at 18:30, where we were expected and welcomed by Fr. Dennis James Acedo and Fr. Lyle Carungay.

 

We heard our first Eucharistic Mass at 06:00 on the fourth day – July 11, celebrated by Fr. Carungay. We dearly need it and wished it everyday. Breakfast came at 07:30 and we bade goodbye at 08:00 after the passport stamping. The day was uncomfortably warm and we had to take a breather at Bagakay, Valencia, Carcar City at 09:40. By 10:00, we were on our way to Calidngan and stopped at the San Isidro Labrador Parish to observe our mid-day rest after lunch. 

At 13:00, we resumed with the Camino de Santiago. At Lunas, I wasted 70 minutes looking for the right road to Pit-os. It was déjà vu again for me in this same location just last January, guiding another set of pilgrims. At 16:30, quite rested after recovering from the exhaustion of my bewilderment, we set on again, arriving at 17:41 in the St. Augustine de Hippo Parish of Magsico, San Fernando. We were expected even when Fr. Murphy Sarsua was away on a personal errand. By the time he arrived he was happy to see us and invited us for dinner. 

Day 5 (July 12) would be the last of the long routes. We ate breakfast at 05:30, stamped our credencials and left Magsico at 06:00. It is a cool morning but once it is past nine in the morning, the world goes unbelievably warm. At 08:00, we stopped for a breather at Bandilaan, Patag, Naga City while enjoying the landscape. We proceed after 15 minutes and took another 30-minute rest at Alpaco. We resumed at 10:00 and arrived at Taghaguimit at 10:45 to take an early noonbreak.   

At 11:45, the Camino de Santiago of Doc Lei and Frances Marie continued under a favorable mild weather, the third straight so far. I wished this weather be everyday. We arrived at the San Roque Parish in Uling to rest for 15 minutes. By 13:25, we were on our way again until we arrived at the San Pedro Calungsod Parish in Cantabaco, Toledo City at 15:00, and warmly welcomed by Fr. Armando Orehuela. We nursed our blistered toes and washed our clothes due to a good surplus of time made on account of a very kind sky. 

Day Six – July 13 – is the turning point of the Camino Cebu when long days would be bygones and longer rests would be welcomed. The route is 14+ kilometers but it would be uphill. After leaving Cantabaco at 07:30, another “camino weather” day is before us, aiding our travel in the most generous way passing Camp 7, Minglanilla. After a 15-minute rest at Sinsin, Cebu City, we arrived at Sudlon I to enjoy an early lunch at 10:45. We resumed at 11:45 and reached the St. John the Baptist Parish at 12:45, under light showers. Fr. Bernard Oyao expected us and welcomed us in.

 

On July 14 (Day Seven), we heard our second Eucharistic Celebration at 06:00, celebrated by Fr. Oyao. After breakfast and passport matters, we bade this parish on the hill of Tabla goodbye at 07:30. This day’s route is the shortest – all downhill – and there is an absence of an urgency, even aided by another day of “camino weather”. After a 15-minute rest at Consit, we resumed at 08:45 until we arrived at a roadside market of Bonbon for an early lunch at 10:45. At 11:45, we continued on and arrived at the Birhen sa Guadalupe de Cebu Parish, Babag, Cebu City at 12:30. Fr. Mark Barneso knew our coming and welcomed us despite his busy schedule. 

It was on this day that Doc Lei received a not-so-good news from his husband. She decided to terminate their journey on the Camino de Santiago on account of a very grave nature and I had to respect that. Things happen which are beyond our control which she was experiencing in the middle of the Camino Cebu. However, she has to consult her husband when he calls back. The following day, July 15 – Day Eight – Doc Lei informed me that her husband decided that she has to go on with their journey and assures her that he understood their absence in his most wanting moment. 

With heavy hearts, we proceed to the next destination: Sto. Niño Parish of Guba, Cebu City. After breakfast and the matter with the credencials, we bade goodbye Fr. Barneso at 08:00. Upon arriving at Sirao at 09:40, we decided to stop when heavy raindrops fell. We resumed our journey at 10:20 after it stopped. We arrived at Santo Niño Parish at 11:40 where Fr. Peter Necesario had been waiting of our coming. Frances Marie was a revelation today. She was ahead all the time unlike on the first few days where she was adjusting to the long walks and saw her frequently stopping.

 

The third Eucharistic Celebration we heard was celebrated by Fr. Necesario at 06:00 of July 16 – the ninth day of the Camino de Santiago. After breakfast and the passports, we bade goodbye at 07:15. We crossed over the boundary of Consolacion and then of Liloan, where we took rest at Mulao at 10:00. After 15 minutes, we resumed our Camino Cebu, knowing that we are now in the threshold of nearing to our destination. We arrived at Mulao, Compostela at 11:00 for our noonbreak and resumed at 12:00. 

By 13:30, we arrived at our day’s resting place in Basak which is not a parish. It is the home of the Catampatan Family, who volunteered to convert their abode into a homestay for pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago. Husband Paul is a lay minister of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santiago de Compostela while wife Minnie, takes care of their candle-making business. It was the second time that Paul and Minnie hosted me and my pilgrims in their humble home. The first being last February with my 10 pilgrims. 

After breakfast, the last day of the Camino de Santiago of Doc Lei and Frances Marie begun at 06:00, July 17th. By 06:45, we were already at the Cross of Triumph, on a hill of Bagalnga; thanks to the blistering pace of Frances Marie and the “camino weather”. This was the highlight of the journey where the pebbles you carried along the whole length of the ten days is gently placed on the bottom of the huge cross. It is here where you unload all your hurts, your most profound prayers, confessions of sins and prayer requests from relatives and friends.

 

At 07:30, it was time to go down to finish the last few kilometers of the Camino de Santiago and on to the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santiago de Compostela, which we reached at 09:45. Doc Lei and Frances Marie were received with leis by the welcome committee and both proceeded to the reliquary of St. James the Apostle, to offer prayers of gratitude and thanks and whisper once more prayer requests from relatives and friends. Fr. Scipio Deligero invited Doc Lei, Frances Marie and I to an early 10:30 lunch.

Both Doc Lei and Frances Marie endured the ups and downs and the trials of the Camino de Santiago and both connected perfectly with it. They each had the Certificate of Finish to show, signed by His Excellency Jose S. Palma, the Archbishop of Cebu. On our lonely journey in our threesome, there was enough space and distance for each to process thoughts privately and not too wide as to hinder a good conversation and sharing jokes. The Camino Cebu is most perfect this way.

 

On my part, I let them walk ahead so they could have privacy and not be stressed by somebody up ahead dictating the pace. They set their own pace and they stopped to look back, once in a while, at me, when the paths crossed one another and I would gesture with my hand going left or right or straight ahead and they would go on their way. It was kind of awkward to march up ahead or breathing next to them and walking behind is the best method that even endeared me to Frances Marie that she drew a cartoon version of me later. Funny… 

Doc Lei and Frances Marie ultimately spent a day in Cebu before planing back to Manila on the early morning of July 19, 2019. They brought with them their appreciation of their journey (disguised as a vacation) on the highlands of Cebu and rediscovered the other facets of their Christian faith by knowing better St. James the Apostle through the Camino de Santiago. A few days after this, Doc Lei informed me of a minor miracle of her sister’s friend’s niece. The sister requested her to pray for the recovery of the girl, which it did. 

Such are the ways of the Camino de Santiago and its spiritual healing on people and pilgrims. There are a lot of stories and this is one of the many experienced in our own Cebuano version. iBuen Camino! Viva Señor Santiago!

Pencil sketch by Frances Marie S. Flores

PINOYAPACHE GOES TO SAMAL ISLAND

I PROMISED TWO YEARS ago that I would attend the 2nd Omega Pelta Kappa Fraternity and Sorority National Convention to be hosted by the Zeta Chapter of Davao City on September 9, 2017. This, I made in writing for everyone to read, after the conclusion of the 1st OPK National Convention held in Cebu City last September 2015. Later I faced a dilemma, when the date was fast approaching: that I simply do not have the funds to be there. 

It is not easy to just forget about it. No it is never in my character. I gazed at heaven for manna. I was about to give up to that idea when a fellow Peltan, now based abroad, promised to shoulder my airplane fares should I be interested to go to Davao and attend it. Then another of our sister promised to take care of the billeting before and during the national convention. I did not ask for all of that but it came my way. God is Great! Thank you! Thank you my gracious sponsors. You are heaven sent. Thank you.

I was scheduled to fly from Cebu on September 7 but, by the quirks of the regularly delayed flights with which this particular airline is famous for, my flight was rescheduled on the night of September 8, just in time to be with my brothers and sisters celebrating a pre-convention party in Matina Town Center, one of Davao City’s popular watering holes and we occupied the front tables. It was like we were college students again. Actually, this was the day that OPK was founded 52 years ago.

During that joyous affair, I witnessed the military conducting checkpoint on the entrance to the rock concert event. The whole of Mindanao was under Martial Law due to the war against terrorists in Marawi City which had just ended a few days ago. Threats by armed groups are still present which necessitated drastic measures. The military watched us from the sidelines and would always approach anybody who would take a smoke with stern warnings. The musical event ended at midnight and orders of beer stopped.

Tired from the travel and too much of beer, I joined with other Peltans to rest early – at 02:30 of the following day – at our billeting area in Green Windows Dormitel, so we could start early in the morning for the convention site, which would be at Samal Island. At 05:00, my pre-set alarm woke me up and I get the opportunity to use the common bathroom first. My mindset always worked on situations like this which I learned many years ago in training center barracks.

Yes I prepared for this travel under a Martial Law atmosphere that I came “naked”. I did not bring any blade, not even a small Swiss Army Knife, for I cannot fathom it being confiscated or of me getting investigated because of that. I preferred going “grey”, to go places unnoticed and without arousing attention. I compensate what I lacked by increasing my situational awareness. I know how Martial Law worked because I grew up with it in the years of the Marcos dictatorship (1972-86) and I hated it.

At 08:00, we were now prepared to Samal Island and one vehicle of our convoy got caught by radar speeding in a highway while approaching Sasa Wharf. In Davao City, you are not allowed to cruise over 40 KPH. I appreciate that and it should be applied nationwide. The driver, who is from the Gamma Chapter and unaware about this city ordinance, got a warning instead after one of our hosts interceded. We waited for our turn to board the ferry that would cross a narrow channel into the Island Garden City of Samal.

It is my first time to be in this island, which is known for its mother-of-pearl farms producing cultured pearls. Samal Island was also in the news some two years ago when the Abu Sayyaf went out of their way to kidnap three foreigners while they were in their yacht. After 30 minutes, we arrived at Samal and walked just a few meters to where the convention would be held: Camp Holiday Resorts. It is good to know that the sister who sponsored my billeting, took care also of my registration which is a thousand bucks. Again, thank you.

I got registered without a fuss, took a seat around on one of the tables and did a Peltan handshake to everyone. Familiar faces, from the convention of two years ago, arrived and everybody exchanged niceties, good conversations and hearty laughs of funny memories. Coffee and light meals got served. The convention is scheduled for 18:00, so I looked for my room, which I get to share with two other Peltans. It is a nice airconditioned room with a soft bed, a good view from its terrace and it is not cramped.

After freshening up, I went back to the convention hall wearing the event shirt. The room occupants doubled by this time but, thankfully, I reclaimed my seat. My envelope is still there and, in it, is the event programme. My Lenovo A7000 is still at its place near the electrical outlet, charging power. Too much of WiFi hours ago have drained it of life and now it is gaining battery volume. I need the Android phone for the documentations. I came here because of an obligation – a promise – and, second, as an adventure travel blogger.

Travelling under a Martial Law is adventure. It is another adventure if you do not agree – in principle – to this present government’s penchant for extra-judicial killings and ignoring rule of law. I am a dissenting voice and Davao City is the current president’s hometown. Figuratively, I am in “enemy” territory because I am different from you in thoughts. What would be sauce for you is poison for me and let us agree to disagree with that. I am no stranger to the president and Davao City. I climbed Mount Apo in 1994 and, in 1995, I chased and caught alive a serial killer here which got me an audience with the former mayor. We met twice!

As much as possible, I will try to keep to myself, despite the festive affair, and I will refuse any talks about politics. The program started and the chapters are mentioned. Delta Chapter, the one I belonged to, is now a dying entity, so were every other chapter except where OPK is still very active. It is so sad because we are not getting any younger and the law forbids us to do the usual rituals and processes which had shaped our view of fraternities and sororities, and of our own OPK. It does not work that way anymore and we have a dearth of new blood. I do not know if this convention would adapt to change.

It did not. By design, the idea about PISPI was never mentioned. Burying that to silence is the extension of the leadership council to two more years. They have not done their homework for two years and have nothing to show anything promising and I heard no mild reactions. We are still feeling – or reeling – our way in the dark. I was hoping the advocates for change were here because I was very receptive to that idea. There is a rift somewhere and what is there next in this same setup? PISPI would have given me hope instead of reminiscing about the glory days like school reunions always bring.

When the convention ended, I returned to my room and drank beer to toast to the demise of PISPI and what is left of my OPK. I do not see a good future. I kept to myself on the room’s terrace accompanied by a few Peltans celebrating our 52nd founding years from the rest. Personally, I do not like a crowd and I would rather do socials in anonymity, far from the rest. We all will stay here until tomorrow noon. The exclusivity of a room is much better and it works for me here.

 

The second day, September 10, is reserved for recreation and more socials. Early rising Peltans have already occupied two long rows of table on the general beach area. Breakfasts of native delicacies were provided by our hosts and buckets of cold Red Horse keeps you warmed up. You may have to choose the shoreline or an infinity pool to cool off or bathe on both. I do a short tour around Camp Holiday. There are many amenities and rooms but I would not do a detailed description or content without being asked to.

At 12:00, we moved from Samal Island back to the mainland. Many of us from Cebu has flights back but our hosts decided to treat us for lunch first in Flyover Ihaw-ihaw Restaurant at the Buhangin District. Then someone saw a durian and we proceed to McArthur Highway where it is popularly sold. I love durian and I could eat ten pieces in one setting, which I did in 1997. Today, I am just good for four. It is not that cheap anymore. My OPK sisters and brothers brought boxes of fruit and processed durian with them when they went to the airport.

I remained. My flight is scheduled for tomorrow. Brod Raymund Galot and Brod Ody Lee made it sure that I have a place to stay. I do not have a choice but go back to the Green Windows Dormitel. It is much cheaper and there are not too many guests. I do miss the company of my fellow Peltans. On the street to where it is located are many cheap restaurants which would be favorable for my limited budget. There is not much to do except read a book, Deep Survival by Laurence Gonzales. I always carry a book when traveling.

My last day in Davao fell on a very infamous date – September 11. Subconsciously, that tragic event which came to the US sixteen years ago, could happen anywhere but it has a good chance that it could also happen in Davao now to which a Martial Law preempt such ideas of harm. Brod Raymund came at 11:00 to fetch me. An extended courtesy of my host which I am most indebted to. My flight is at 20:40 yet. We visited first his office to log off from work. He is with the City Engineering Office.

Brod Raymund became my tour guide which I appreciate very much. He brought me to GAP Farming Resort. It is one of Davao’s oldest recreation resort. At its heart is a tunnel system built by the Japanese Army during World War II. After an hour of roaming around, we go down to Riverwalk Exotic Resto Grill. They serve crocodile dishes which meat are sourced from the Davao Crocodile Park. I need to try and I choose crocodile sisig to widen my taste experience. I eat the whole serving to myself.

It is well-spiced to cover something that is related to something fishy. Well it has its own characteristic but one thing that I noticed immediately is that my tooth became achy. It is not a toothache yet but the sensation on my gums indicate that it will. My knees, which once were arthritic, acted like one again, although I could walk without feeling pain. There is just a knot somewhere in there. This crocodile meat has a high uric content or it could be an ingredient which caused my nerve receptors acting crazy. 
 

Brod Raymund brought me at last to the Davao airport at 18:30. In two hours, I would be flying out. A slight delay came. 23:15. I was ready for another delay when an announcement advised us passengers to proceed the boarding gate. I enjoyed my time in Davao and Samal seeing again fellow Peltans and it would take another two years before we meet again with them in Kabankalan City, Negros Occidental – the next host. This time, I will not promise. To those I met, thank you all. I could not name all and you are in my heart. Thank you and may God bless all Peltans!

Document done in LibreOffice 5.3 Writer