THE THRUHIKE JOURNAL: Day 21 (Bongdo to Labangon)

I TOOK ANOTHER BATH this morning. It was not that cold last night. Maybe we were not that high in elevation anymore. I do not have an altimeter and I could not determine how high was our location here in Bongdo, Borbon. But it was sunny for the last two days and, despite that, the breeze was cold. The amihan, the northeast monsoon winds, carried the winter cold of Siberia, Japan and China to the tropics, where we are 10 degrees above the equator. We also had the sun slightly at our back even at noontime.

This would be the last day of my Hi-Tec Lima hiking shoes for the Thruhike. When we reach Labangon, Tabogon, it would be sent home. It would be replaced by another pair of Jack Wolfskin shoes, which I used brand new during the southern leg, and have caused me blisters for there was no time to break it in. I believed the 11 days I spent walking the Cebu Highlands Trail before it was replaced by the former is good enough to try it once more. Tomorrow hosts the final and most terrible obstacle of the Thruhike.

The bath last night and today, February 8, 2017, have freshened me and have washed away dust, grime and that manly odor. It also gave me a clear mind. That helped when I had another breakfast of instant Knorr soup and rice, which I find so monotonous and devoid anymore of appeal. But there is coffee to keep me alive. As always, the capsules of Enervon multivitamins and Herbalife natural raw Guarana and, of course, Yakult cultured milk are consumed before we step out into the great outdoors and Day Twenty-one.

 

I have washed last night my Silangan hiking pants and the official CHT jersey made by Silangan Outdoor Equipment, my outfitter. It stayed odorless just the same as if it were not laundered. What it removed were tiny salt crystals, dust, debris and pollen. Nevertheless, the notion of having clean apparels gave you a peace of mind. I will still wear my Fila socks and SNS elastic undershorts for the last time today. Tomorrow will be a hard day and I hope the supply team arrive later this afternoon along with Jack Wolfskin.

We left the village of Bongdo at 07:30, after thanking the Hon. Abdias Retuerto and the village secretary. I know the route to the next village where we will cross another municipality. We follow an unpaved road, stopping for a while to talk to a good furniture maker who specialized in bamboo material. We walk on and stop by a small stream where there is a small bridge. We are now between the boundary of Borbon and Tabuelan.

It is a very lonely place. By the time we left the last house thirty minutes ago, we did not encounter people. We continue on and follow our route but someone whistling was coming towards us. He got startled when he saw us. We gave greetings but the guy acted queerly. I gestured to Jonathaniel Apurado and he understood. This early morning, the green things were greener, the air clearer and the birds sang to their joyous abandonment. The weather is mild with breeze blowing cool. It would have been perfect for the local guy except for our unsought presence.

As I reach a landmark, I scan the landscape and found what I was looking for. It is a trail. How did I know there was a trail? Been here done that, but how did I found that out before? Simple. Terrain analysis. When I explored this place a year ago, I found the rough road was going west but my direction was to the north, so it was not difficult. Just scan your right side if you happen to walk west and it would reveal itself. Of course, you need to have good observation skills. Common sense will teach you that.

 

The trail followed the hills gently up and worked its way along contours, crossing a wide cleft and then up another gentle slope until I saw a roof of a hut. Familiarity breeds happiness. We are now approaching the village of Kanluhangon, Tabuelan. I have also nurtured friendship with their village chair, Hon. Felix Rondina, so I sent a text message to the Tabuelan Police Station to inform them of our presence in their area and our Thruhike.

We arrived at the village at 09:00 and began the routine of paying courtesy call to an official. There was a group of residents sitting under a waiting shed and they were waiting for someone. They spotted me but their body language told me a reaction that could only be borne by either excitement or by confusion. There was something in the air. Was it my appearance? I am now bearded and tanned with white tousles of hair. My clothes are partly wet with sweat and one of my shoes was smiling. I looked like a hobo.

One of them approached me suspiciously and asked if we were the ones they were expecting. No, I says. We are just passing through. Are we hikers? Yes, we were hiking since January 17 from Santander and going to Daanbantayan. Then there was joy and laughter in everyone as they poured out of the waiting shed. They did not expect us so soon. We were supposed to be expected for lunch and they were having a meeting on what food to offer us.

My happiness got replaced with sadness as I learned that Felix had passed recently from a motorcycle accident at Liloan. He was another able public servant and was also the head of the Tabuelan Disaster Risk Reduction Management Office, just like the late Dante Limana of the village of Tabili, for Catmon. I met both at a search and rescue conference in Cebu City last July 2016. Their presence would have ensured safe passage for hikers after this Thruhike is over.

We stayed and talked with the residents. Three live fowls arrive with their owners while a fire is started at the back of the health center. I get to know Felix’s widow, Lendy, herself a village councilor. We were warmly entertained and offered native delicacies. During a lull, I tried the weighing scale. I could not believe I weigh close to 86 kilos. Was the scale defective? It had been a long time I weighed like this. I stopped standing on one when I failed to bring my weight below 98 kilos.

 

We eat lunch together with the residents of Kanluhangon. I took several servings even though that, in less than thirty minutes, we would be hitting the trail again, this time, with bloated stomachs. I eat to my hearts content. The food was heartily offered and there was sincerity in their voices. I wished policemen from Tabuelan would join us in this feast. They were also expected. I explained to the residents that we have a schedule to pursue and people to meet at 16:00. It is very important that I arrive there first.

At 11:45, we left Kanluhangon after giving our sincerest thanks and our appreciation. We walked on a paved road that became unpaved when it joined another one. Under the heat of the noontime sun, we persevered and reach a paved road. This road goes to coastline Tabuelan and the other end to Tabogon. We followed the one going east but made a left turn at a corner, entering the village of Calambua, San Remigio. It was breezy yet, despite it, the sun burned above and the pavement bounced off glare. Sent a text message to the San Remigio Police Station informing them of our passage.

The road offered few shades except by coconuts. To the right of me is a rolling valley of grassland and sugar canes. I looked for the trail, found it, and began crossing this wide valley. It is better hiking here and the trails are much kind to the feet soles. We cross a small bridge and, guided by the sight of the national highway far away, we choose our route. We did not follow the path taken during the Segment VI Exploration Hike last year. Instead we took a northeasterly direction.

We crossed a stream and climbed up a dirt road, crossed another bridge, go back to the same road. We passed by a private cemetery and continue on until we reach the St. Martin de Porres Parish. We are now in Ilihan, Tabogon and a few meters from us is the national highway. It is 13:55 and we have so much time. We can take a half hour of rest and still be at Labangon, Tabogon before 16:00. Our supply team would be expected on that hour and I am competing with a Swiss guy, who are known to observe prompt time. After all, they made famous the Swiss watch.

Markus Immer would be driving the supply team in his Toyota Hi-Lux pickup. On the last three rendezvous, I arrived early before him and on this fourth supply run, I would keep that record intact. He would always arrive before time but I beat him all the time. We start for Labangon at 14:20, after crossing the highway. I sent another text message for the Tabogon Police Station so they would expect also of our presence. The asphalted road wove among sugar cane fields and then I saw this ragged monolith from afar. The Doce Cuartos Mountain Range is the last and the most difficult obstacle of the Thruhike.

 

I shivered at its sight because I could not shake off the trauma of my two failures there in April and August last year. This small mountain range is my Moby Dick and I am Captain Ahab trying to tame her. I would try her again tomorrow. Most of it are unexplored. It has only a very few trails and there is no known water source. Forest cover are stunted, exposing your head to heat exposure. It is made of limestone and the surface are made of loose rocks. One mistake and you are done. 

A sign says we are now in Labangon. We crossed a bridge and found the village head at his home at 15:30. I made a courtesy call on the Hon. Leonilo Peligrin and asked permission to stay and sleep for the night. He welcomed our presence. At 15:45, Markus and company arrived. With him were Justin Abella, Leomil Pino and Jenmar de Leon and our fresh supply of food and fuel. Part of that are bread from our valued sponsor Park N Go Bakeshop, courtesy of Randy Salazar.

A police patrol from the Tabogon Police Station arrived at 17:30 to check on us. They informed us that they were sent to secure our presence and that they would also stay overnight. Very much appreciate that. After supper, Markus, Jenmar and Justin left. Leomil would stay with us and would hike with us tomorrow and try to experience this terribly dour mountain range. We three tried to fit in the limited space of the hut. The night is silently eerie but we have guardian angels tonight. 

Distance Walked: 14.97 kilometers

Elevation Gained: 212 meters and a low of 89 meters

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THE THRUHIKE JOURNAL: Days 19 and 20 (Tabili to Bongdo)

DAY NINETEEN ::::: WHEN WOULD THESE COLD nights end? It had rained at midnight and, fortunately for us, the roof of the makeshift kitchen did not leak where we lay at. I promised myself a bath today, February 6, 2017. I am having second thoughts though. Jonathaniel Apurado did. It was like a ritual for him, water or no water. I do not mind walking without the benefit of a shower. This is the Thruhike and I am going to enjoy life off the grid.

We just had another three days’ supply and one of those are packs of Knorr instant soup. I choose crab meat flavor and have Jon put in shreds of dried squid during cooking. We have 300 grams of rice each and I just sank my first 100 grams into a billy can. The Trangia and its Chinese counterfeit are working at the same time to ensure our breakfast goes well. I decide to heat up with coffee, instead of a cold bath, and wait when the food gets served.

The soup tastes nice today despite my abrupt change of appetite that was dictated by a better meal of free-rein chicken soup that were offered us for the past four days. We were really pampered at Lawaan (Day 15) and Pili (Day 16), in Danao City, and in Bongyas, Catmon (Day 18). Anyway, I stirred another coffee after breakfast before swallowing in a multivitamin capsule, a Herbalife natural raw Guarana capsule and Yakult cultured milk. These make you fat if you are not moving.

I have changed into a new pair of dry Fila socks and a dry pair of SNS elastic undershorts. I would be facing another physical obstacle later but I am well rested and well fed. My Hi-Tec Lima shoes are drying up and it went well with my present disposition. The High Sierra Titan bag, provided by blogger Gian Carlo Jubela of Adrenaline Romance after Day Eleven, made my life better. It had shrugged off moisture and storm and remained rainproof even if it was “pre-loved”.

Inside is my Camp Red Special Edition Balaraw, gaining stock as one of the knives carried by the PinoyApache. The first of 40 in circulation, it is light and deserves its place in the Thruhike. Another knife is a Victorinox Ranger, provided by Markus Immer of Switzerland, is placed inside one of the waist belt pockets. The other pocket is claimed by the Suuntu MC-2 compass, a gift by Alan Poole of the UK. A backup, a Suuntu A-30, is hidden in the inner top pocket, a gift by Glen Domingo.

We are all now packed and ready to go and I bid goodbye to this nice place which was once the cheerful abode and office of my dear departed friend, Dante Limana. His father-in-law stood on the door as I say my great appreciation and thanks to him and Dante’s absent wife for accommodating us for the night. After this Thruhike, I will offer prayers for the soul of my friend. May God bless his soul. At 07:38, my shoes crunched noisily on the unpaved road as it joins another paved road. Day Nineteen thus lurched into business.

The road wind its way above a ridge offering us a good vista of hillside farms and fruit orchards. I am following the route that I had made during the Segment VI Exploration Hike last February 2016 which, by the way, was the route suggested by the late village executive and friend. After taking another road, unpaved this time, it reached a dead end but there is a trail that goes to the bank of the Bawo River. Once at the bottom, we gazed across another municipality, Sogod.

The stream is small, about ten meters wide, while water level is just three inches above the ankle. It was easy crossing it but climbing the hillside to the top was not. It took us an hour or more. Behind us is a beautiful valley, wide and green, unseen yet by recreational hikers. Before us is a plateau of small rolling hills. It is extensively farmed. The rain of many days have turned the soil sticky and, sometimes, slippery. After an exhausting climb and then a painstaking hike that punished my shoes, we reach the village hall of Cabalawan, Sogod.

After a short conversation with village officials, we proceed to a crossroad where, they said, cellular signals are strong. It took me many minutes and tries to time my text message to the Sogod Police Station as the signal is just a bar only and disappears before you hit the send button. I did send it and the ball is with them. I follow a branch of unpaved road. Beside me and beyond are small rolling hills, farmed to the crest and trough. I saw a headwater of another stream, a small pond, that gave life to a brook.

We reach a place called Bagting and I saw a familiar face of last year. The woman knew me and Jon and was all smile as she and her husband were busy shaving off the hair of their herd of swamp buffaloes on a water hole just below where we stood. She said it prevents lice. We left a pack of Park N Go stick bread for her as we follow a trail that would bring us into more interesting places never before seen by mainstream outdoor lovers. Yes, majority of the places we visited have not been trodden by the Facebook crowd.

I believed we are passing through private lands but there are no fences to bar passage. Just as I was debating with myself about a trail, an old woman came to my rescue and she knew me from last time. Appreciating her help, we left three more packs of stick bread when we found out she was with her three small grandchildren. Laughing at our good fortune, we found ourselves crossing a small stream which brought us to a place called Mangadlaw. Here, we found a store selling cold Coca Colas. As it is already 12:10, we decide to spend noonbreak here.

The rest broke the fatigue factor that was about to strangle me as I struggled to read the right trail to here. Rehydrating with cold beverage was perfect since the weather was sunny the whole time with occasional clouds making it mild. As usual we have Fitbar and a few pieces of Park N Go bread. I am carrying by hand three loaf bread and 14 bottles of Yakult inside a plastic bag. With that, and my rolled Therm-a-Rest sleeping pad slung on my front, I looked like an itinerant vendor, am I not?

My appearance would always elicit me a challenge from a local which I always replied in my best humor. Many times along the way, people would ask me what I sell. I stop to explain and they blush. A few times, a local would dart out from their doors when I pass by, suspiciously looking at my back, my bag and what I carried on my hand at a distance, only to find out too late that Jon is approaching from behind. As always, Jon would do the explaining and they smiled at their bloopers.

I think Jon had seen this happen three times on the unpaved road as we were walking towards Cabangahan, Sogod. We are but strangers here and never in their minds that, one day, tourists or hikers or adventurers or outdoorsmen or whatever, would take interest in visiting their places. For them, it is a phenomenon, a rare occurrence. For us, it is adventure, a means to pursue our passion. The Thruhike would change how they would interpret the presence of strangers in their places in some near future.

We reach Cabangahan and made a courtesy call to a peacekeeper when I found their village hall open. We wrote our names on their visitor’s log book after showing him our ID cards. I informed the older man that we are tourists and we are hiking through their place to spend a night on the next village. I added further that we came from Santander and have been walking straight for nineteen days today. Unbelief was written in his face so I showed him our event banner and the letters received by the Office of the Governor and the Cebu Provincial Police Office. He was speechless.

After a long day, we arrive at Bagacay, Sogod at 14:30. We slept here last time and we will do so again. I just need to pay a courtesy call to the village chairman, Hon. Leonardo Moneva. Unfortunately, he was not around but a subaltern received us and showed us our billeting place. It is a new multi-purpose building under construction. Window panes have not yet been installed but it has tiled floors. We chose a smaller room on the second floor.

Since there is still a lot of daylight left, we decided to inspect a large cave known as Dao. The official who received us earlier led us there. The village council expected that it will become another tourist attraction and so have cleared the thick vegetation on its approaches. It had not been thoroughly explored yet and had not been mapped. There are cave bats inside and there are fruit bats on the tallest trees outside of the cave. The huge trees are a very rare dao and a fig species.

Dusk came but we were already inside the building, eating our fare of spicy noodles, enhanced with dehydrated seaweed. My body have adapted to the strains of walking with a heavy load. My soles, except after Day Two, have not experienced soreness. The blisters have not reappeared, the soreness of the shoulders hefting a bag was a thing of the past. Maybe I have a better bag on this northern leg.

We have more obstacles ahead. The last one, the hardest. For eight straight days, I have not had the privilege of bath and toothbrush. It is immaterial to the goal before me. It does not affect my physical and mental capacities. It is just a state of the mind. Lacking thereof, left me still alive to enjoy my own Cloud 9 even on another cold night.

Distance Walked: 14.13 kilometers

Elevation Gained: 354 meters and a low of 214 meters

DAY TWENTY ::::: IT IS NOW 08:05 AND we are now departing for the next village. Hon. Leonardo Moneva of Bagacay, Sogod have not arrived yet and I can not sacrifice time for Day Twenty of the Thruhike. Today’s route would be harder to navigate and I need some extra time. Today is February 7, 2017. We said goodbye and thanks to his village councilor who welcomed us yesterday in his behalf. We were comfortably accommodated and he showed us Dao Cave.

One of my Hi-Tec Lima shoes is now smiling. A thread had came loose from yesterday’s hike. I have sent a text message to my wife last night so my primary hike shoes, a pair of Jack Wolfskin, which I used for eleven days during the southern leg of the Cebu Highlands Trail, would be sent to me for tomorrow’s rendezvous with the supply team. The Jack Wolfskins were provided by Niño Paul Beriales for me and Jonathaniel Apurado. I hope it would replace the present pair else I would have an excruciating hike ahead.

We follow the paved road going to Mohon, Sogod and a national road that linked Borbon with Tabuelan. We walked on this highway, going east, until we arrive at a spot where there is a waiting shed. Across it is a wide trail that used to be a road. It simply was left to the elements and nature simply claimed back what was theirs. This would be the start of a difficult navigation among low individual hills, tight valleys and high humidity. But the first time was difficult. That was last February 2016, during the Segment VI Exploration Hike.

Today, I need to refine the former route I took and work to make it better. Being familiar with the terrain is now an advantage. Once I am in some wild spot, I took to the narrow trails that led me to the other side of the hills, go down a tight valley and climb up another hill. I found an unpaved road and follow north. I linked with a road in shorter time than the first time I was here.

For a time, we have company with a vendor selling bread astride a motorcycle. He stops, we overtake. We walk ahead and he would speed past us. That goes for many moments, like a see-saw until he sold all his bread and he has to go back where he came from. He was my unsuspecting guide but the best lifeline should Murphy’s Law arise. The quirks of traditional navigation. Plain common sense!

Then we come upon a landmark of a house because it is big for its size in these parts and I am tempted of another unpaved road when I saw a community on the other side of a valley with a big structure having a red roof with white markings. It is far but it is strangely familiar. Then when I am about a kilometer to my goal, a lone motorcycle driver told me that we are going to Cajel, Borbon. Realizing my error, I retraced my path back to the big house. There is a phone signal and I sent a text message to the Borbon Police Station of our presence.

There is a trail, barely noticeable, and I follow it to the depths of another tight valley. I thought I have made it easy sailing today following a road, never knowing that I have to go back to the ones I had trod last time. It is never easy navigating in a tight valley. The high humidity suffocates you due to the absence of breeze which could revive you. Then you cannot see landmarks. Your compass is your constant companion.

We passed by a farm and a farmer pointed to a star apple tree where there is a trail to Bili, Borbon. The trail is good but very rocky. We climb, we dip, we climb, climb and climb, we dip and we climb until I saw another big structure with red roof and white markings. As I go near, I could read the words as KALAHI CIDSS. We are now in Bili. There is a school and it is recess time. It is 12:30. Time to enjoy noonbreak. One obstacle gone and it would be easier to the next village.

A store nearby sells cold Coke and we sit down to enjoy lunch of Nutribar and three pieces Park N Go bread. It is warm but cloudy. An old woman, Leonora Mondero, shares us her fear of seeing strangers. She remembered in the ‘80s while she was then the village head, friendly well-educated strangers came to visit this place never realizing that they were with a different agenda. The strangers came back a month after with many more bearing long firearms and camped here. They were rebels.

We assured her that we are not. We are just tourists hiking through their place. We told her that we came from Santander on foot and are now walking on our twentieth day. We have seven days more to go which will end at Daanbantayan. Oh, too much information left her dumbfounded. She laughed at us and she could only shake her head and say that God bless our journey. We found it very fitting and said goodbye to her after an hour of rest.

A trail lead us to an unpaved road. I found a land mark which has a trail that would lead us to Bongdo, Borbon. The trail is very nice. It passes by a natural spring, crosses a small but lively stream and followed the meandering waterway upstream. At another natural spring, we refilled bottles and climb up a trail that led to a semi-paved road. There is a chapel and basketball court but this is not the one. Bongdo is further ahead if you follow the road east.

After two hours of walking, we were rewarded with the familiar sight of our refuge for the night at 15:00. After doing a courtesy call on the village chairman, Hon. Abdias Retuerto, we were welcomed to stay in their village and use their multi-purpose building as our rest haven. In appreciation, I parted two loaves of Park N Go bread to the village head. We were here last year and slept here. Maybe tonight, I will have my first bath. But, dinner first.

Distance Walked: 12.50 kilometers

Elevation Gained: 225 meters and a low of 115 meters

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