CAMINO CEBU JOURNAL: Day One and Day Two

DAY ONE :::: IN FAITH, EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE. Never have I dreamed that a Camino de Santiago would become a reality here in Cebu, Philippines in my lifetime. Yes, I have dreamed of this to happen sometime ago but it would have taken me longer, maybe never at all, under my own power. With divine intervention, this dream goes on “warp speed”, defying everything impossible. Praise be to God!

In three months, the Camino de Santiago in Cebu became a reality, after it was seriously broached by Rev. Fr. Scipio “Jojo” Deligero of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Señor Santiago Apostol of Compostela, Cebu to Bro. Cedee Neo of Doneo Host Making Community last March. The Municipality of Compostela found the undertaking a great honor to the town and would benefit the townsfolk and so lent its whole support. Even the town mayor, Hon. Joel Quiño, would come along.

 

Today, July 6, 2017, is another date with destiny. I just finished the first Thruhike of Cebu last February 14, 2017, churning around 400 kilometers in 27 days from Liloan Point, Santander to Bulalaque Point, Maya, Daanbantayan. Doing another long hike in a span of six months is mind boggling and the wife does not like it at all. The outdoors is now my bread and butter. I have sacrificed opportunities to earn before and during the Thruhike and now this, the Camino. I simply will donate my time, talent and everything for Jesus, the Mother Church and St. James.

Like the Thruhike, this is something that I not let pass away. It is a rare opportunity, not for recognition but for the benefit of my soul, who would reap the spiritual rewards gained after engaging in a pilgrimage such as the Camino de Santiago. I have identified the route of the Camino, following the wishes of Fr. Jojo that it should start from the Municipality of Badian. Fr. Jojo is from there and so is another parish dedicated to St. James.

I have requested Jonathaniel Apurado as my subaltern for the Camino. He fulfilled very well that during the Thruhike and he would walk as last man while I take the point. Coming with Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel are Jemmelyn and Roderick Montesclaros, Mizar Bacalla, Roger Montecino and Alvie Rey Ramirez, the official photographer. Our food for the pilgrimage is almost the same for the Thruhike which Jon and I carry today. Everything is set except for the night stopovers. Fr. Jojo’s wishes. I surrender that to God’s hands.

At 03:00, I picked up a pebble from my backyard and start my pilgrimage from my home in GL Lavilles Street, walking to the gateway of the South Road Properties, just right across Plaza Independencia. Jon arrive thereafter and, a few more minutes, a hired passenger van came to pick us up. Inside are Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel and the rest of the pilgrims. This would be a great adventure for them all, walking on places where they do not know yet but it is the least of their concerns. They are all there for the Camino de Santiago.

We arrive at the St. James the Apostle Parish of Badian at 05:53 for a special pilgrim’s mass concelebrated by Rev. Fr. Marion Mejia and Fr. Jojo. This parish was established in 1825, older than the one in Compostela, which was erected in 1866. The reasons why the latter was chosen as the pilgrimage destination is because it is an archdiocesan shrine and it is located in a town which namesake is the same as that of the Camino’s destination in Spain. After the mass, we had our pilgrim’s passport stamped with the seal of the parish.

We walk across the courtyard into the ancestral home of Fr. Jojo where we were all treated a fine traditional small-town breakfast. Fr. Jojo meets his 98-year old mother and asked of her blessings for our pilgrimage. At 07:45, the spiritual journey starts. I sent a text message to the Badian Police Station informing them of our hike as we follow a road going up the hilly regions of Badian. The ascent is gentle but it would not be like that in a few hours, I believe.

I am the most worried of everyone, possibly Jon’s burden too. I do not know how they would fare in a long journey on a terrain and climate that is found on the most rugged part of Cebu? I know their medications, allergies and hereditary illness but the stress of a hard physical activity could cause changes in their mental and physical conditions. I have seen that and I am made to believe that they have prepared and worked out their bodies for this. But my attention is trained always on Fr. Jojo and that is why I walked so super slow.

Fr. Jojo has gout on each ankle. He found walking very excruciating and burdensome. He told me once that walking from the rectory to the altar and back is difficult for him but he has to fulfill his sacerdotal duties. Yet, despite that handicap, he does not back away from fulfilling another obligation, as a steward and shining example of his flock, to engage in a painful pilgrimage for his parish that was founded on the deeds of St. James the Apostle and of the Camino de Santiago.

I asked Roger to transfer most of the load inside the bag of Fr. Jojo into his bag and to Mizar’s. Fr. Jojo seemed to walk better with less weight on his brown Camelbak 35-liter bag now. I advised Roger to provide him a walking stick which could aid his balance and could also help in lessening the pains on his aching ankles and knees. A bleached scallop shell with a painted Cross of St. James hanged from the front of his Camelbak, announcing to the world that he is on a pilgrimage.   

As an experienced wilderness guide, I treat my attention to all my guests equally and fairly but there are a few exceptions. Like Fr. Jojo’s case. And then that of Mayor Joel. As a local executive and politician, you cannot be too sure with people they dealt with. He came incognito without a police escort. I used to work in VIP protection and I know. As much as possible, I want to be closer to Fr. Jojo and Mayor Joel. More like an extra tasking for me but the experience afford me a rare opportunity which is denied to most guides and would be very useful for me in future situations.

We take rests as frequently as possible for a few seconds to a few minutes while in the village of Dagatan. On the way, I pick up a fossilized scallop and carried it along. I changed my route at the last minute when I consulted with a local and regretted that decision later. My original route was to take a well-beaten path in Dagatan that connect to another road that would lead to Tigbao and the village of Santican. I decide to follow the same road instead until we reach the village of Tiguib at 10:00 and take a longer rest.

Trying to correct my earlier blunder, I consulted with locals and we have to follow a trail which would lead to a public school in the village of Sohoton. Thankfully, there are water sources where we stopped and refilled bottles when there is an opportunity. We arrive at Sohoton at 13:00 and decide to enjoy noonbreak. We are already behind schedule but I am optimistic that we would cross over that high mountain range which separates Badian from Dalaguete before dusk.

After an hour, we continue on our journey. I cannot force a hurried pace. Our speed depends on our slowest member, Fr. Jojo. Refreshed by the rest and able to hire a local guide, everyone’s spirit goes back to square one. We walk on trails and on places where there are no more inhabitants. We pass by forests and gained good progress but exchanged it with rests and more rests. Dusk had claimed the forests and then night time came.

We longed for open spaces and we have that at around 19:30. It is good to see the stars again. The local guide led us through farm trails until we could see faint glows of light from a few solitary houses which would be very far away. We are now at Candungaw Gamay, according to our guide, and the name sounds so sweet to my ears. It means that below us would be Dalaguete and we have to go down a steep trail in darkness. Did I not tell you that Fr. Jojo is afraid of heights?

At 21:15, we are now on the edge of a cliff and there is that steep trail that would lead down to Dalaguete. Hearing the sound of a distant motorcycle from somewhere raised our zest. Fr. Jojo was having a hard time and every available hand have to help him negotiate the trail inch by inch, hobbling on his two feet when he is able or letting his butt do the walking. It would have been difficult for Fr. Jojo if it was daylight. We finally reach the bottom at 22:40 but, unknown to us, people were looking for us.

A Suzuki Multicab arrived to investigate the lights given off by our flashlights and they were smiling and feeling relieved. They were asked by Rev. Fr. Eligio Almazol Jr. of the Our Lady of Consolation Parish in Manlapay to assist in finding us. We thank our local guide and paid him more than he used to earn. Immediately, I let Fr. Jojo, Mayor Joel, Jem, Roderick, Mizar and Roger go with the vehicle while Alvie, Jon and I walk the rest of the muddy trail to a dirt road. The Suzuki came back for us and brought us to the parish. It is 23:15.

Outside the rectory, we sit on monobloc chairs and quite relieved after that very long hike. I ask forgiveness from everyone for my mistake of changing the itinerary at the last minute and promised that it would not happen again. Fr. Jojo is talking and laughing with Fr. Jun. Cold beer are offered and I took one. It is a nice feeling when cold beer slides down inside your throat. I finished it in four quick gulps and I asked for another one. The priest’s men are busy and they are cooking up something. I could offer a hand but it is better if I just sit and sip cold beer and not be in their way.

A very late dinner – a midnight meal – is placed on the table. We were left to our own world facing our own dining plate, spoon, fork, drinking glass, warm rice, steaming free-rein chicken soup, fried pork, native delicacies, ewers filled with ice and water, cold softdrinks and a bonus of bottomless coffee if it need be. These were the things and the nutrition I need before saying goodnight to the first day.

DAY TWO :::: MY BODY COMPLAINED ABOUT having to wake up at 08:00, though I was supposed to do that at 05:00, if you follow the itinerary by heart. I dismissed the alarm when it was on its first five notes, fearing that the unwanted noise would deprive the pilgrims of their much-desired sleep. Yes, my body muscles felt so tight and morose. The cold weather helped me to love the warm but soft mattress that I am laying on.

My blood seemed to be in a stupor but I have to rise up and rally them for breakfast. As I stood up, so were Alvie, Jonathan and Roger. They were watching my body language all the time and also feared to disturb my sleep. Automatically, the parish rectory became a beehive of activity. For lack of time and space, I decide not to take a bath. The cold weather would have to do with that, I guess, although I would not accept it.

When everyone has tidied up, we proceed to the Our Lady of Consolation Parish, just a few meters nearby. A Holy Mass is going to be celebrated by Fr. Jun at 09:00 and it is to be before the schoolchildren and faculty of Manlapay Elementary School. Our very own Fr. Jojo would join him at the altar. The children from six to fourteen years of age, about a hundred or more, barely filled up the six rows of pews.

The place of worship is huge and circular, or so I thought. The roof has an unusual shape. It looked more like a giant scallop! Good God! The symbol of the Camino de Santiago! St. James must have played optical tricks upon my eyes. How could that be? We are here on short notice and the church is just a year old. My skin curled at the sudden goose bumps I am experiencing but I kept to myself what I saw and understood.

After the church service, we go back to the rectory to pack our things back to our bags and to eat a full breakfast. We thanked Fr. Jun and his staff. It is not every day that they have visitors from different places, especially pilgrims doing the Pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago, which is kind of strange for them, since it is the first time they heard of such. Except, of course, Fr. Jun. He is most happy of the visit.

It is late now but I am consoled to the fact that we would be walking on the “Vegetable Highway”, a long stretch of familiar terrain which I have had the privilege of walking twice over the last three years, the latest of which was the Thruhike. We left at 10:30 and crossed over to Argao. I sent a text message to the Argao Police Station informing them of our presence. The day is pleasant and cloudy and the first few minutes was spent praying the rosary while walking on the road. The whole five mysteries.

At 12:15, we stop by a roadside house in the village of Linut-od to observe our noonbreak. The village head, Hon. Paz Caminse, entertained us as we boiled water for coffee and instant noodles. I have provided each pilgrim a set of energy bars as our nutrition for lunch, a practice that I have favored during the Thruhike, to control noonbreaks to an hour or less, but the pilgrims found this food strange and unpalatable. They are used to rice and warm food.

By 13:30, we proceed with our journey. The harder surface of the “Vegetable Highway” seemed to be felt on each pilgrim’s feet as everyone took frequent rests. I would not worry if we are overtaken by darkness. We are passing within habitations, although rugged and mountainous, yet the mountain road brought a sort of improvement in the people’s lives here. They could travel to the town centers easily now by motorcycles to sell their farm produce, secure their material needs and send children to schools. It is also very scenic.

At 16:00 we stop by a farm market in Bayabas, on the village of Cansuje. A patrol jeep from the Argao Police Station arrived to see how we are doing. The pilgrims decide to buy fresh meat from the market for dinner later on. The problem is, the meat would deteriorate after an hour without preservation. Someone has to bring it fast to the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish in the village of Colawin. Fr. Jojo has to ride a motorcycle with the meat so it could be cooked immediately. Someone would have to accompany Fr. Jojo on the principle of the buddy system. That would be Roger.

 

I am glad Fr. Jojo took that opportunity. He had suffered enough and he had already proven his steadfastness before his faith. At 16:35, we lurched forward, once more, dusk begins to overtake us. In dim light conditions, I missed the intersection going to Colawin. I proceed instead to the village of Alumbijud. A helpful local offered me a free motorcycle ride when he sensed me on the wrong way. I fully believed I was in the right direction but village peacekeepers on the lookout for us and who missed me passing by, suggested another intersection to the rest, which is why I was “lost”.

In darkness, we followed a beautiful concrete road, but consoled by the presence of policemen who would pass by in their patrol vehicle every now and then and us escorted by village peacekeepers on motorcycles, seeing to it that we are on the right track. We reach the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Parish at 20:35. Rev. Fr. Mario Villacastin welcomed us inside the parish compound. Food is ready including the meat that Fr. Jojo and Roger have so judiciously transferred in haste. It had become braised pork.

 

Each pilgrim is equipped with a hammock with a bug net and there are plenty of trees to tie to. However, the fatigue factor of two days walk on mountainous terrain has taken their toll. Unlike Jon and me, the rest are not exposed to these kinds of difficulties. They preferred the bamboo gazebos, the wooden benches, even on concrete under a covered court. Jon preferred the protection of the covered court and so am I but there is only one place for a hammock and I had taken it.

My things are arranged for quick repacking during the first hours tomorrow and my mind is mentally doing its drill that it had practiced and perfected long ago. I do not like to be in the hours where people use the bathrooms all at the same time together. I preferred the hour when the tiger is on the hunt and where people can be snatched unawares. That is the hour I would take a bath and the water all to myself.

Total Distance Walked: 38.80 kilometers.

 Highest Elevation Gained: 2,629 feet. 

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