2021-039 | THE 3RD CAMINO DE SANTIAGO OF CEBU: DAY 1 & 2

THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO that caught the awareness of pilgrims in Cebu and, as far as Santiago de Compostela, Spain, is the one that was pioneered and walked by both Fr. Scipio Deligero and Mayor Joel Quiño last July 6-15, 2017. It started from Badian and seemed to disintegrate on the first day but, by divine designs, the pilgrims went on to finish it in on its tenth day at Compostela as planned. 

I am talking about the Camino Cebu from the South. It was the stuff of legends. Although I was there as the guide, the one who keeps everyone worried everyday, but it was not my show. My role was not that important for me. What is important is I helped Fr. Scipio and the Municipality of Compostela establish the Camino de Santiago in Cebu; a most ambitious undertaking for it was 175+ kilometers long.

Then came the second Camino de Santiago, which is a local version, but is the most popular, for it is kind to the knees and age. It is 28+ kilometers, walked for two days around Compostela and parts of Liloan. Fr. Vhen Fernandez and a pioneer 10-day pilgrim, Mizar Bacalla, takes credit for creating this route. Nevertheless, Fr. Gonzalo Candado walked its inaugural pilgrimage last July 18, 2018. 

The Archdiocese of Cebu has three parishes that are named after St. James the Apostle, from whose footfalls evolved the Camino de Santiago, first in Spain and, now, here in the Philippines, most notably, Cebu. These are found in Compostela, Badian and Sogod. The Camino de Santiago from Badian to Compostela had already been established. The one from Sogod to Compostela is expected to be next. 

But that has to take a back seat owing to the hosting by Compostela of the 2nd National Congress of St. James the Apostle Parishes and Devotees last February 5-6, 2019. Fr. Scipio directed this writer to refine the Camino from the South and the exploration work for routes were confined there in preparation for another Camino pilgrimage which would coincide with the event upon its tenth day. 

Then in June 2019, came the break. Fr. Scipio wanted the third Camino de Santiago established before he would end his term as parish priest of the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santiago de Compostela come August. I was again commissioned to explore a route that would start from Sogod and end at Compostela. Studying the map, I concluded that I could accomplish this in five days.

My initial plan was going on solo but, then again, would it be nicer if I involve my fellow pilgrims? I tapped three ladies whom I guided on the Camino Cebu during the 2nd Jacobean Congress. These three were, to my observation, the fittest walkers among the ladies. So I accommodated Tata Reynes of Compostela and journalists Erl Durano and Grace Lina.

With blessings from Fr. Scipio, we proceeded individually to the St. James the Apostle Parish of Sogod in the early hours of June 18, 2019. I have already coordinated this route exploration with the Sogod LGU, the Capitol and the Cebu Police Provincial Office and I am expected at the places I marked in my itinerary. One last thing, I made a courtesy call to the parish priest. 

Fr. Eduardo Marcellones was very receptive as I explained to him my purpose and he invited me to speak before his parishioners in the middle of the Eucharistic Celebration and explained the Camino de Santiago to them. After the mass, we four were invited to breakfast by Fr. Marcellones. Then we departed at 07:45 after stamping our credenciales and officially started this northern Camino de Santiago.      

In my previous study of the map, there were no parishes located on the interior of Sogod and the nearest parish was that in Catmon town. I avoided, as much as possible, the Cebu North Road and seek parallel secondary streets going south but, at the end of a corner, I have to accept walking on this busy but dangerous highway.

 

I choose the part of the road were I and the rest of the pilgrims could see the oncoming traffic. We crossed the bridge over the Bawo Creek and we were now in Catmon. Their parish is located on a hill and I previously marked that spot before the town center where there is a narrow road going to there. At 08:45, we were now at the San Guillermo de Aquitania Parish seeking their parish stamp. 

The presence of the three ladies made it easier for people to understand the Camino de Santiago and the life of St. James the Apostle. So, this Camino of the North, was not only a pilgrimage, an exploration, an exercise of faith, but also as an informational campaign and awareness on the faithful Christian or otherwise. We now were, unofficially, the ambassadors of St. James or Santiago de Compostela. 

After securing the stamp mark at Catmon, the next parish nearest would be in Binongkalan, Catmon. It would be found by near the sea but you would have to walk this same highway. We left at 09:15 and avoided this highway by following another side street parallel, however short, then grit your teeth as the racing buses swept past by you. 

We arrived at Macaas, Catmon at 10:15 and sat on a shaded road shoulder where there is a beach nearby. The sea seemed to invite you amidst all this warmth. After 30 minutes of rest, we resumed our journey. At 11:45, in Catmondaan, Catmon, we decided to seek lunch in a family-run eatery. In a nearby public gym, we enjoyed siesta time, oblivious to a game of basketball by kids. 

By 13:00, we walked again on another but longer side street. It is very warm and the choice shades are on the other side of the road but we cannot exchange our safer side for that so we had to endure the exposure to the sun. At 14:00, we stopped by Panalipan, Catmon for rest, but we have to cross the highway to avail of shade which seemed to be plentiful on that other side. 

After 30 minutes of rest and cold soda drinks, we crossed again this highway to be on the exposed but safer side. We crossed over a bridge spanning Panalipan River and, this time, the highway goes steep and narrow and, with that, we go carefully and slowly. At the top of the rise, the familiar roof of the St. Joseph the Worker Parish loomed ahead. Our first day is about to end in Binongkalan. 

It is 14:50 and plenty of daylight hours left. But the parish and its rectory is abandoned. No matter, we would set up our shelters on its parking lot lined by pygmy coconut trees. Erl and Grace would share a tent while Tata opt for a hammock. Likewise, mine is a hammock which I find very convenient. We cooked our food and dined early. Then we called it a day at 19:00.

 

On the morning of the second day, June 19, a pickup arrived and out came Fr. Carlito Salve, the parish priest of St. Joseph the Worker Parish. He just came from Cebu City and did not know our presence. But he did expect us but not this day. He welcomed us but we had already taken our breakfast and, we thanked him for allowing us to camp at his parish even without his permission. 

We left at 07:45, after stamping our passports and carrying the blessings of Fr. Salve, following the same highway, passing by the KM 47 mark. After a false try on a road corner, I found the one true feeder road that would lead us to the hilly regions. I have not been here but I have explored places before that were much remote, beyond your comprehension. 

The road we followed was very serene, meeting just a few locals, who all were friendly, and replied our greetings with a smile and a nod of the head. Rustic farm scenery and remote homes dotted the countryside and, after a considerable walk of more than an hour on the bends, the rises and the downs of the hills, we rest at Cañangpas, Carmen at 09:00.

After a half hour, we proceed with our journey on places that are beautiful and peaceful until we reached a community where there is a village center at 10:00. We were now in Cantipay, Carmen. We decided to make a courtesy call to their officials and the ladies helped me explain our event – the Camino de Santiago and Santiago de Compostela. 

The hinterlands of Carmen is one of the places that experienced the presence of a militant organization whose purpose was the overthrow of the government. They came here disguised as missionaries, educators, businessmen, government representatives, politicians, community organizers or NGO workers. Then came the armed progressives who influenced and disrupted their way of living. 

Those events, which later led to conflicts and the polarization of communities left a bad imprint on the residents’ collective memories. It is very important that I show sincerity and respect on every community I passed and take time to explain to them that I am not what they think of me. I always have papers and identification cards for their own appreciation and understanding. 

After another fruitful 30 minutes of rest and rapport with village officials, we continued on, passing by more rustic farm scenes and crossing a bridge over Luyang River, where there is a signboard that it is under rehabilitation. It is under threat from commercial farming whose owners and managers has this habit of pouring huge amounts of chemical fertilizers in return for high yields. 

We arrived at a busy road and crossed it for another road corner which has a signage that we are now in Cantumog, Carmen and just 800 meters to the Our Lady of Mount Carmel Parish. We climbed up the road and arrived at the parish at 11:15 where we were received by the church workers. This parish is located on a hill where there is an adjacent family cemetery. 

Fr. Fiel Suico, the parish priest, we were told, was accommodating his seminary batch to a tour of the nearby Cebu Safari Park. He would return later for there would be an evening program. Meanwhile, we set up our shelters on the fringes of this very clean memorial park where it afforded a majestic view of the lower hills and the coastline. Likewise, we prepared our food for lunch.

 

At around 16:00, people began to converge on the open fields of the park and installed trappings for an event, which we knew would be in the evening. Later, a caravan of vehicles arrived where Fr. Fiel and his classmates alighted. They came from a field trip and it looks like there would really be a big event.

At 18:00, a Eucharistic Celebration was celebrated by Fr. Fiel and thirteen of his classmate-priests. What a blessing we were in. We never expected this. After the mass, many guests came to join in their celebration. An al fresco buffet table with all the food was made ready for everyone, including us “gate crashers”.

A five-piece band played danceable tunes to pep our appetite. In the mild melee of the early evening, we introduced ourselves to Fr. Fiel and our purpose of coming. He appreciated it that we made his parish as a stopover of this Camino from the North and he welcomed us to partake of more food as we wished, yes we would, and sing, which we could not. 

Fr. Fiel then gets hold of a guitar and sang songs popular in the ‘80s and the ‘90s. Fr. Fiel is a good singer and he is comfortable in singing at the repertoire of songs he had chosen. He is a rock star in his own right and he entertained everyone until his voice became hoarse. He is a priest that his flock could easily relate to. 

The night entertainment continued until 02:00 of the next day and, by that time, I was already dosing half-heartedly in my hammock. The dawn was cold but I am used to sleeping outdoors. In a few hours, I would be waking up with the crowing of the cocks for the third day of the Camino de Santiago which I hope you would read in the next episode. Thank you. iBuen Camino!